Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No. there is approx 80-90hp loss through the drivetrain in a manual 34.

How do you work that out?

Just wondering as no-one has ever really posted any motor on dyno vs car on chassis results best my knowledge.

Some people use percentage, others fix figures, always different

If someone has actual data to aid speculations that would be good :(

I do it this way.

We all roughly know what a standard RB25DET is rated at the engine and we all roughly know what they make at the wheels standard. There's about a 60-80HP loss give or take depending on the condition of things.

So depending on the extra power (say an increase of 200HP at the wheels), i re-ad the 60-80HP loss (since you aren't going to magically lose less power through the drivetrain as power increases unless you have done something out of the ordinary). This will give you roughly your minimum amount of power at the engine. Then i take into account that as power increases, losses through heat, noise, friction ect. increase. Depending on the added power i say it might lose an extra 10HP or something like that.

It is rough, but atleast you know roughly what it would be.

Edited by PM-R33

^^ +1

This is exactly how I work it.

Percentage loss is incorrect. You can all argue til you're blue in the face about it but it is simply wrong.

Auto gearboxes are close because they have fluid vs centrifugal forces in the converter but it still only goes so far at being close, then the more hp you make, the less accurate your percentage will be.

Most manual gearboxes + medium - heavy diffs will lose anywhere between 70-100hp from the engine. Autos are about another 20% on top of that, that's as far as the percentage will get you.

Of course it's different for each gearbox but we're talking 10-15hp difference and it's about as accurate as you are going to get without engine dynoing.

How do you work that out?

Just wondering as no-one has ever really posted any motor on dyno vs car on chassis results best my knowledge.

Some people use percentage, others fix figures, always different

If someone has actual data to aid speculations that would be good :(

To be honest I always thought it was a percentage added, depending on what car.

Never knew it was fixed figures.

I do it this way.

We all roughly know what a standard RB25DET is rated at the engine and we all roughly know what they make at the wheels standard. There's about a 60-80HP loss give or take depending on the condition of things.

So depending on the extra power (say an increase of 200HP at the wheels), i re-ad the 60-80HP loss (since you aren't going to magically lose less power through the drivetrain as power increases unless you have done something out of the ordinary). This will give you roughly your minimum amount of power at the engine. Then i take into account that as power increases, losses through heat, noise, friction ect. increase. Depending on the added power i say it might lose an extra 10HP or something like that.

It is rough, but atleast you know roughly what it would be.

No. there is approx 80-90hp loss through the drivetrain in a manual 34.

I beg to differ. It's not linear as power increases.

A % is a better tool, but still not accurate.

Fluid viscosity and simple gear mechanics have a lot to do with it. There are engineering articles out there if you'd like to read up on it.

Converting engine bhp to rwhp has to be a around a set HP amount like 70-90hp (what PM-R33 said).

Anyone who stats a percentage is on crack, as this would mean the more HP you make, the more HP you lose. Example based on 10%, @ 300bhp you lose 30hp and @ 500bhp you lose 50hp, BS!!!!!!

I beg to differ. It's not linear as power increases.

A % is a better tool, but still not accurate.

Fluid viscosity and simple gear mechanics have a lot to do with it. There are engineering articles out there if you'd like to read up on it.

It's closer to a fixed figure than it is to a percentage. Unless you are talking about engines producing under 200hp, then both will be extremely close.

The whole idea of power loss has everything to do with gear mechanics and fluid viscosity, yes, but once it gets to a certain point, the percentage figure becomes more and more inaccurate, the further away from it you move.

Plus you'll need to provide a link to any article you are referencing so I can read it.

Converting engine bhp to rwhp has to be a around a set HP amount like 70-90hp (what PM-R33 said).

Anyone who stats a percentage is on crack, as this would mean the more HP you make, the more HP you lose. Example based on 10%, @ 300bhp you lose 30hp and @ 500bhp you lose 50hp, BS!!!!!!

Try doing it for 1000hp or 2000hp. The gearbox has exactly the same counter force no matter how much extra power is turning it. The only thing that can change that is if the fluid changes viscosity (which it does - but ONLY to a certain point), the gears don't become any more resistive.

I beg to differ. It's not linear as power increases.

A % is a better tool, but still not accurate.

Fluid viscosity and simple gear mechanics have a lot to do with it. There are engineering articles out there if you'd like to read up on it.

I never said it was linear.

You know what the car losses through the drivetrain from factory.

Example, the old GTS HSV Monaro's. Rated at 300kw, make about 220-240kw@wheels.

Standard GTST, rated at 180 odd kw, make anywhere from 120-140kw@wheels.

So if the same GTST makes another 110kw@wheels to 250kw@wheels, we re-add that 60-40kw loss, so it pumps it up to 290-310kw@engine. However the engine is now producing more power, therefore everything is slightly increased in loss. This is the figure that can not be given by a percentage, or a fixed linear figure. It varies. I'm sure there would be a close equation you could do to work it out more accuretly. The more power you make, the higher the additional loss through friction, fluids, heat etc.

So in a bit of a maths equation.

kw@motor = kw@wheels + original factory loss (say 50kw to be a nice number) + 'unknown variable' (additional loss as power increases)

= 250kw@wheels + 50kw original loss + 'x'

= 300kw@motor + 'x'

This 'x' value is one that you have to guess logically. It aint going to be 100kw, it aint going to be .5kw. A good educated guess in this case could be 5kw. It will obviously slightly increase with the more power you are making. at 1000kw@motor it might be 50kw.

That is about as accurate as you can get with guessing, and for most people i think it is good enough to have that minium value and a little bit extra. I'd rather under qoute something than over qoute.

Edited by PM-R33

I like to know it due to conversation with people that aren't that into cars. Since most manufacturer's qoute engine HP figures and all modified car owners qoute @ wheel figures it makes discussions with people that aren't into cars difficult.

Classic case, talk to some one that bought a brand new HSV "My HSV makes 307kw, what does yours make" "My car makes 280kw@wheels" "....Haha my stock HSV has more power". Therefore if you are talking to some one, say your friends parents or something, i always use engine HP figures cause by the time i start explaining drive train losses they will tune out and the discussion will be over.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...