Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTS-T 2 Door Coupe

Hi Guys,

Breaks my heart to sell up, but time to move on, starting my own business and need the cash. I have recently built this up from a clean 2 door shell, and my spares from my previous skyline. Thousands have been spent, this is one of the tuffest 2 doors going around. Its a clean street car with plenty of track/drift focus. Was built to be a street/drift car, but has never seen any track time.

Modifications include:

Engine: Serviced reguarlly, healthy motor, making 210rwk on 16psi

· RB20DET

· Rb25 GCG Highflow turbo

· GCG 16psi actuator

· Sard 650cc Injectors

· Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator

· Z32 AFM

· Custom Intake/cold air AAA Pod filter

· Cusco Catch can

· Adjustable cam gears

· Gates Timing belt

· Gready FMIC

· Splitfire coilpacks

· Turbotech boost controller

· Nistune ECU

· 3” turbo back exausht to twin straight pipe diff back

Gearbox/Driveline:

· Rb25 gearbox less then 100,000K

· Nightworks Urathane Gearbox mount

· Welded Diff

· Exceedy 5 puk button clutch

Suspension/Brakes:

· Coilovers; Buddy Club front, and JIC rear

· Front Nismo strut brace

· CUSCO rear strut brace

· Urathane upper control arm bushes (front)

· DBA 4000 slotted rotors

· QFM A1RM 650 degree hi temp pads

· HICAS completely removed, lock bar and all solenoids and lines removed

· Whiteline Front and rear adjustable sway bars

· R33/s14 Lower control arms

Interior:

· Cusco full cage 6 point with harness bar, (currently just running half cage but rest will be included)

· Rear seats removed with back seat area carpeted

· Sound deadening removed from back seats to the boot

· Drift handbrake button

· Autogauge gauges: Water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, air/fuel and boost.

· Golf Ball shift knob

· Pioneer CD/MP3 headunit

· Kicker 6x9 fited in original parcel shelf with 600w amp

· Momo deep dish steering wheel (same dimensions as nardi deep corn)

· Recaro Recliner bucket seat

Body:

· GTR Bonnet

· Full type m kit

· Gtr front bar (seen beter days, currently cable stiched, very tuff!

· Non turbo headlights (same as n1 without gtr grill tabs)

· Strobe lights in fog lights (very drift/jdm)

· Black bootlid

· 17x9 +30 drift teks all round

This car will not disappoint

Price $14,000 ONO

Will sell for less without wheels, cage, recaro or other bits and pieces, open to offers

Located in South Eastern Suburbs Melbourne.

Call Paul on 0400 200 997

04122009003.jpg

09122009006.jpg

More pics soon.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303214-r32-clean-street-drift-track/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
wow, 11k surely this cant last long.

almost thinking about it myself.

good luck with the sale

Cheers budy its soo cheap for what you get, very reluctant to sale, someone should snap it up before i change my mind.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...