Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How the heck do ya remove the backseat in the R32 skyline ... Gotta take it out so that I can shampoo and deodorise it all properly

My dog after puppy preschool Tonight decided that he would do a number 3 all over my backseat ...

POO EXPLOSION ...

Not happy jan

Nearly vomited on the way back home Disgusting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303463-r32-rear-seat-removal/
Share on other sites

Figured it out ...

Pull the back part of the bottom peice out first then pop the clips out ... which ya have to reef and pull on hard cos they are tiiight ...

then the top peice is just 2x 10mm bolts and then lift the seat upwards then pull back towards yourself ...

Easy ...

Also found shitloads of broken glass , a lighter , 10 cents and a mobile phone under the rear seat fun fun

Now the big cleanup begins ...

Figured it out ...

Pull the back part of the bottom peice out first then pop the clips out ... which ya have to reef and pull on hard cos they are tiiight ...

then the top peice is just 2x 10mm bolts and then lift the seat upwards then pull back towards yourself ...

Easy ...

Also found shitloads of broken glass , a lighter , 10 cents and a mobile phone under the rear seat fun fun

Now the big cleanup begins ...

if you do this ull end up bending the clips at the front.. and good luck geting them bak in when ur refitting... ur bottom part of the bak seat must come out 1st... simply stick ur hand under find where the bottom clips are sitting stick in a breaker bar far in and reeeef it up ull hear a snap sound dont worry coz its just the rusty clip coming out nothing will break... do the same to the other side... these are just U shape stick ins their not curved in or anything... once the bottom is out ull see the back seat top part is bolted in at the bottom think it was a 8mm nut on both sides..... once their out push up and pull back the seat will come off... !!!:) let me know how u go!

Regards George

Put my seat back into the car today ... still stinks but hopefully will disapate with some car cologne stuff ...

Also I put the bottom back in first ... and then squeezed my hand in between the seat to do put the 10mm bolts back in ... pretty easy

Edited by hr32gts
  • 4 years later...

Best thing to do is remove seats, then soak with CT18 Truckwash, the pressure wash it until it runs clear, hang the seats up in the garage on an angle (so it drains to a corner)for 2 days.
Just did that to 100,000km of Nissan Patrol outback dust, they look new.
Yes i know its an old post but this might help the next person that searches.

Edited by xfixiate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...