Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 124
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hey

I was reading ur answer for this not fitting rb25det neo motor, I was wondering why it doesn't fit.

Cheers

Rob

Hey

I was reading ur answer for this not fitting rb25det neo motor, I was wondering why it doesn't fit.

Cheers

Rob

Hey Rob!

The NEO's have a different engine block set-up, the bolt pattern does not match so extensive modifications would be required.

Cheers,

Brendan

(VM)

  • 1 month later...

Just letting you know that these WILL fit a neo motor. My setup at the moment is an rb25de+t neo using an r33 ecu and running an r33 s1 intake manifold to retain sensors for ecu.

The only thing that's different is you need to pull out one stud for the head and replace with a longer one. I did all the work myself and haven't had a single problem.

Just letting you know that these WILL fit a neo motor. My setup at the moment is an rb25de+t neo using an r33 ecu and running an r33 s1 intake manifold to retain sensors for ecu.

The only thing that's different is you need to pull out one stud for the head and replace with a longer one. I did all the work myself and haven't had a single problem.

Hey!

Thanks for the information, I am only going off what customers have noted however I do know that many have used these on the NEO's with modifications.

Do you have any images of your set-up?

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi there could you pm me with a price for a raw cast plenum with adapter for an r33 rb25det. Also do these work with the standard fuel rail? Cheers!

Hi there could you pm me with a price for a raw cast plenum with adapter for an r33 rb25det. Also do these work with the standard fuel rail? Cheers!

Hey,

Will do so now, yep original fuel rail will go straight on no problem.

- Brendan

Hey mate,

Does the plenum take all sensors that were on the stock one? IAC/AAC, vacuum lines etc.

Can you pm me a price for the plain cast finish with stock throttle body adapter to 2750 please

Thanks

Hey mate,

Does the plenum take all sensors that were on the stock one? IAC/AAC, vacuum lines etc.

Can you pm me a price for the plain cast finish with stock throttle body adapter to 2750 please

Thanks

Hi,

Yes mate, takes all the original sensors mate! No mods required with this one.

Will PM you now.

- Brendan

Could u please pm me a price for a raw cast aluminium plenum to suit standard throttle r33 rb25det. Thanks bud!

On it's way....

  • 3 months later...



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...