Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

been a bit slow off the mark, work keeps pulling extra bits and pieces on me so havent done much. k frame has been changed over, and the front coils are in. steering will get re-attached in a week or two (once back from whyalla), and a couple of new purchases will be made too. not going to look as extreme initially to the eye, but those with a keen eye will notice the good bits

  • 2 weeks later...

a small question has come to mind. what would people recommend for cooling system. clutch fan is out of the question now as the motor will be sitting a bit too close, especially if i run a thicker rad, so im going with thermos

im lookin at alloy R33 radiators, just cant decide whether 42mm or 60mm is better / more effective?

and using thermos as a push through, what size is better? a pair of 12" or a single 15" fan

I would run twins with a stagered start (ie:one comes on then the other). Also have you thought about putting in a r32/3/4 rear cradle?? Mate had a 31 with a 33 cradle in it for better set up in the rear end. So far its only tacked in so can not say how well it works yet.

Cheers

Ross

I would run twins with a stagered start (ie:one comes on then the other). Also have you thought about putting in a r32/3/4 rear cradle?? Mate had a 31 with a 33 cradle in it for better set up in the rear end. So far its only tacked in so can not say how well it works yet.

Cheers

Ross

i would, but its an aus-del, so its got a live axle. makes it a bit hard to put an irs cradle in. if it was a HR31 that would have been my first mod :D

hard... yes.

impossible... no.

worth it... probably, maybe, sorta, dont really know.

all i know is i hated the live axle in my r31.. i replaced every bush in the back end and it still just didnt feel tight.

hard... yes.

impossible... no.

worth it... probably, maybe, sorta, dont really know.

all i know is i hated the live axle in my r31.. i replaced every bush in the back end and it still just didnt feel tight.

i'll agree there, i ended up finding some bushes that tightened the rear, and they were the Super Pro bushes. Nolathanes were shit

Now just tryin to get hold of some slotted R33 GTSt rotors, dont want to pay DBA prices LOL

i received some goodies in the mail yesterday, some new hubs and a 42mm triple core radiator :P

car is now on a body trolley (pics when i grab my camera from the car) and the front and rear ends are out again.

diff goes off to be built in the first week of april, hubs should be changed over in the next week or so

photos of progress as promised. doesnt look like much but so much easier to work on now. tomorrow the rest of the pedal box, brake master, front brake lines, steering column and footwell sound deadening get removed

GripII002.jpg

GripII001.jpg

windows will also be coming out so we can start some rust repairs

  • 3 weeks later...

thanks andrew, i'll be sure to ask for some help when assembly starts ;)

good news, my diff is getting built this coming week. went in last week to order my axles, and it seems my order did make last months shipment.

so my standard borg warner 8.5" diff will be equipped with

Moser billet 31 spline axles (standard R31 length, carries same bearing carrier), 5x114.3 stud pattern

Moser full spool centre

retaining the 3.89 auto diff ratio

diff itself gets stripped down, put in the acid bath for a day, then sent off to another local bloke to be etch primed and painted up. comes back, new seals, axles, centre, studs and bearings in and a new dose of oil

  • 2 weeks later...

this week has bought some good news and bad news, mostly good

cage quote done, getting a basic 6 point cage, plus some extra bar work (one important one for future plans is the sill bars), the parcel shelf pretty much chopped out and a new rear firewall panel. this work is all being done by Craig Helps at Helps Metalwork (http://www.helpsmetalwork.com)

before that can be done, its gotta be sandblasted (which is surprisingly cheap and only takes a couple of hours). that will be done the day before it goes in for the cage (so that Craig has a lot of nice surfaces to weld to)

currently making seat rails for my Sparcos, they'll be in before it gets caged too

picked up my Bosch 044 pump and cradle from Autosport, and with some discussion found out not only can he get all my brake and clutch lines i need made up to suit the pedal box (and from the solid lines to the calipers) they can all be ADR approved too.

Turbo wise...........the original plans for an external gated 3071R have been thrown about a bit

Peter had a talk to Garrett, and even though they've been done, they havent been done successfully. So they're steering away from them now.

Im now going towards:

3071R front housing

Nissan proprietary rear housing (roughly RB25DET size, but in a new casting rather than a used one remachined)

Internal gate blocked off

Having seen one of these new ones on display (was a 2871 front with the internal gate retained), theres a lot of meat around the rear housing for any machining that needs doing. its only going to cost an extra 100 bucks all up on what id originally been quoted for the "proper" 3071

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...