Jump to content
SAU Community

Looking At Buying An R33, But Having Some Doubts (advice Would Be Great)

LexDelta
 Share

What would you do??  

6 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

LexDelta Explorer

LexDelta

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey everyone of the SAU

I'm pretty new around here, so I hope this is in the right section of the forum, excuse me if it isn't.

I haven't actually got a skyline yet but I've been looking into it for a few months now.

Theres one in particular I've been looking at a lot, I took it for a test drive the other day, its one thats rarely seen in my area (SA) and rarely in good enough condition like this one seems to be. Most of the good skylines for sale seem to be interstate...

I'm mainly looking for advice on a few aspects of the car, which I'm unsure about. But before I start on that, check it out here on carsales.com:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat....aspx?R=8102993

skyliney.jpg

Now I've already had a look around this forum, and I came across this thread here about buying skylines which was very helpful, but I have a few more particular questions. Note that I'm looking for a nice skyline which is good to drive and reliable (some weeks I do a lot of driving) but mainly I just want something enjoyable to drive which might stand out a little and turn a few heads + have good character (I'm tired of owning boring cars). Performance mods aren't really my thing, and this particular skyline I'm looking at might need to be un-modded a little to make it more street legal, I dont want to be defected any time soon...

Anyways, heres my questions:

  • My main worry currently is the ECU and its 'legalness', clearly it wouldnt be an issue unless I got defected, but I want to avoid any problems in the case that that happens. The guy selling this car says he can throw in the original ECU (and a heap of other original parts) so I can switch the ECU back if I want, anyone got a rough estimate on how much that would cost? I'm assuming a re-tune would be required as well? Or is it as simple as just plugging the old one back in again?
  • The car seems to be running a bit lean, (as mentioned in the carsales page) it can stall sometimes on a hot day. I took it for a drive the other day and it did feel like it wanted to stall on me initially, but once it warmed up it seemed a little better. Ive heard this can be a problem related to the ECU, more reason to change or tune it up again. Any advice?
  • The speedometer is out by 20km/h. Now this not only means that thats an issue, but it means the KM's are out by a fraction as well, depending on when then speedometer went wrong. Also I've heard that this can be caused by people taking a dash from an auto skyline and putting it into a manual. The guy told me he had a second dash he was going to put in to fix it, but didnt want to cause it had lower km's and didnt want to mislead anyone with that. Hes offered to put it in for me before I take a 2nd test drive. Thoughts?
  • The car in the pictures looks lowered a lot, its since been heightened a bit and is much better, but I may need to adjust it a bit more because its still a little low and might have troubles on some of the roads i drive on, plus my horrendous driveway. Estimate on cost?
  • The wheels, they're larger on the rear, and hence more expensive. Is it easy to just buy, say, 245x45x18's for the rear as well as the front? Ive talked to a few tyre places and they seem to think its simple, and it would save me the expense of those wide rear wheels.

If anyone has advice Id love to hear it, and a huge thanks to anyone who actually read through all of that.

Looking forward to hopfully owning a Skyline sometime soon and joining in more discussions on this forum.

Cheers,

Alex

Edited by LexDelta
GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted

From 1st appearances it looks OK to me Alex > get it up on a hoist and inspect with someone that knows 'Lines.

I'd want to check for rust, even tho' the advert says there ain't any + repaired damage.

Compression test pls.

If it were in NSW, I wouldn't feel threatened about defects, since the K&N is boxed in & the aftermarket ECU isn't much of an issue. I don't know what SA laws are about the ECU tho'

Can you use thick checkerplate to get over your driveway? I like the stance of the car as it is.

Yes I'd check on why the speedometer (& thus the odometer) is out...

LexDelta Explorer

LexDelta

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the reply terry. It might be selling to another seller this weekend, the seller has just advised me, but if not ill have another good look at it. Ill also get an RAA mechanical inspection done, so some people who know what they're looking at can check it over, which is better than what I can do myself. It costs a little, but should be worth it.

And yeh Ill have to do something about the driveway, but it shouldnt be too bad. The height in the picture is a bit lower than what it is now, it still looks nice and low, but is a more legal height and safer for driving over dud roads.

Edited by LexDelta

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By PranK · Posted

      Thats too fricken cool.
    • PranK
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By PranK · Posted

      That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • GoHashiriya
      Volk TE37SL 9.5J +22 / 10J +20

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Duncan
      Single Turbo Conversion On R32 GTR.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
×
×
  • Create New...