Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got few things i want to get rid of, no longer needed.

located in st.albans call: 0431 366 941

GFB Supersonic BOV $120

SR20 engine dampner $40

G-speed Footpedals $30

K&N air filter used $20

R33 electronic speedo dash white lights up blue or green $80

rocket switch with metal back $15

Left 180sx eye lid black $10

R32 climate control $40

s13 climate control $20

SR20 stock airbox $30

R32 coilovers KYB/Bilstein $400 ( Fronts are KYB Rears are Bilstein )

Turbosmart Boost controller $60

post-58995-1263566283_thumb.jpg

post-58995-1263566401_thumb.jpg

post-58995-1263566505_thumb.jpg

post-58995-1263566616_thumb.jpg

post-58995-1263566734_thumb.jpg

post-58995-1263566867_thumb.jpg

post-58995-1263567050_thumb.jpg

post-58995-1263567268_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304110-r32-180sx-s13-random-parts/
Share on other sites

the airboox is off sr20det and it comes just the box top and bottom half.

the coilovers are a much better replacement to your standard springs and shockers, they sit nice and low and are a firm drive, they are not adjustable.

cheers

Edited by MonkeyDrift

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saw this video today from Adam LZ.    Long story short is he is claiming that the load from the engine fan once the fan clutch heats up(engaged) is increasing the getrag rattle(at idle) when you don't have a dual mass flywheel.  Before I go buying an electric fan setup .... Anyone heard of this ?    I must admit when my car is cold the getrag is pretty quiet and I do notice the rattle after it is all warmed up. I've always assumed this is due to the gearbox oil temp and tolerances of metal.       
    • Yep it sure does.   Tone wheel lines up in the same spot perfectly.    
    • Something I meant to say when we were chatting the other night about having an open trailer floor being great to work on a car, but you've never used the feature... It's a great place to park a car after doing suspension component changes, and do the tightening of all the bushes with the car sitting at full ride height. Especially when you don't have a 4 post hoist!
    • That is way more science than even I would use. I just eyeball it, not even accounting for the non-verticality of the tape measure when held on the lip and the centre at the same time. +/- 2mm is good enough for the girls I go out with.
    • So, before putting them in I need to understand the stock ride height. This is how I measured it: First, check the diameter of the wheel's centre cap, it was 52mm. Then put a piece of masking tape approximately across the centre and measure 27mm (half) from at least 3 sides to get a reasonable idea of the centre of the wheel cap. Mark that with a horizontal line as one measuring point. Then, directly above the wheel on the guard, put another piece of masking tape in approximately the centre. Use a string line to find out the point on the guard above the centre of the wheel cap and mark that. Then it is simple, just a tape measure to check the distance from centre of the wheel to the centre of the guard. Final results where  LF: 381mm RF: 379mm LR: 401mm RR: 400mm Pretty even considering they are 120,000klm old factory springs, lets call that 380 front and 400 rear.
×
×
  • Create New...