Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dont help this year, but we will be looking at these sorts of events next year... However the k's / $ and relative to distanc hauled is always a consideration. These events are critical, because they are ideal tests for the bigger shows.

Rally Tas struggles... and that is one of the best value for money events in the country. Plus it uses some Targa stages. Why more people dont use it as Targa Test I dont know... yet Targa West Point is fully subscribed. Biggest problem is AASA v CAMS rules me thinks.

TT

Dont help this year, but we will be looking at these sorts of events next year... However the k's / $ and relative to distanc hauled is always a consideration. These events are critical, because they are ideal tests for the bigger shows.

Rally Tas struggles... and that is one of the best value for money events in the country. Plus it uses some Targa stages. Why more people dont use it as Targa Test I dont know... yet Targa West Point is fully subscribed. Biggest problem is AASA v CAMS rules me thinks.

TT

You would likely be more in the know than I, but ive heard that due to low numbers its likely Rally Tas will go gravel and be based on the original Southern Safari ARC event (as an ARC event)? Would be a shame, I reckon Rally Tas is a great event, great roads and burnie is a great place to hold it.

You would likely be more in the know than I, but ive heard that due to low numbers its likely Rally Tas will go gravel and be based on the original Southern Safari ARC event (as an ARC event)? Would be a shame, I reckon Rally Tas is a great event, great roads and burnie is a great place to hold it.

What you mean more in the know... You Nav broad minded persons get all the good gos! I feel a bit sorry for MSR as they bought a brand that was on the way down and couldnt turn it around. There is a big conflict when you are trying to run a round of the ARC in Tassie and keep it on Tamac.

I think CAMS needed to tow the Octagon line and not let ego's get in the way... Then we would have one set of rules, and in a shrinking market the best rallies on Tarmac would be supported.

We are just doing a tear down for rebuild... and either build a AASA weapon (CAMS cheater) or CAMS compliant (AASA non competitive) thiing.

Personally I think they both have it wrong, and somewhere in the middle would be good.

Anyhow I digress... The big W is off the gaspers!!!

And I cant wait to do some of these types of events (inc road trip for the crew). Can do 3x per year for the price of Tugga.

in a shrinking ecconomy and budget pull back... I think that is the way to go.

TT

Love the way the Auto Mod changed 5Lut5 to "Broad minded Persons LOL

Edited by Targa Tom
She'll be fine Timmy no panic. Just bring ya mouth guard.

Just needs tyres, brakes, fliuds, stickers, and other assorted annoyances.

Just drop it round to RGM Racing and tell em see ya with it in Townsville! Im sure thats what Russ does!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...