Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, only just recently i have had trouble with my engine misfiring bad. Its an R33 26 with big single in an R32 GTS-T, WOLF 3d, near brand new plugs gapped to .7, stock coils. It has never happened before until it was about 30deg the other night and usually after about 15mins of normal driving it starts.

I was driving along at about 4000 rpm in second and it started sounding like your typical boxer engine, and assumed an injector plug had come off as it's done it to me before. Checked all plugs and the problem stopped . . . maybe not. Started the car up, sounded good, drove along and it came back then disappeared, came back, disappeared etc. it even happens on idle sometimes (it's an extremely rapid misfire sounding like a machine gun haha)

Doesn't matter what gear or what rpm but gets really bad when you load the engine up or stay on constant throttle, and if you hit boost it will go away sometimes. The stock oil pressure gauge in the dash will get close to zero then jump to about 4, then just fall and rise as it pleases. Engine doesn't blow smoke and no oil in turbo inlet or exhaust.

I have checked all plugs and had to change number one as it looked fried (less than 2000km old).The rest still look new

Cut out each injector while car was running to see if there was no change on one. all good though

Changed fuel filter over in case it was blocked

I'm guessing i should just seal my coils with silicone and do a comp test but while i'm there should i be looking at anything else.

Any help appreciated

Edited by AE86 Spoontah

No i havent and there is no AFM. . .

but i have a theory after drivng home today. Another hot day and after 10 mins it started happening. Checked all injector plugs again an no change to engine noise to it's got to be the coil packs. Reason i'm thinking this is that there are hairline cracks in the coils and when under bonnet temps get too hot, the cracks expand and the spark jumps out. I'm sealing them up now so i'll see if that fixes the problem.

double check that coil plugs "click" when you attach it as it's happened before where loose connection causes intermittent misfiring

They all click apart from no.1 but you can't pull no.1 plug off unless you release it how you normally would

Edited by AE86 Spoontah

Sealed up coils with some quick cure high temp sealant but hasn't fixed the problem. It's gotta be electrical is it "pops" alot more now and the pops are louder like there is bulk fuel being ignited.

Could there be a problem with my ignitor?

Sealed up coils with some quick cure high temp sealant but hasn't fixed the problem. It's gotta be electrical is it "pops" alot more now and the pops are louder like there is bulk fuel being ignited.

Could there be a problem with my ignitor?

Hi there, dunno what your problem is but seems like there are two which could be related. If you have sealed up your cracked coilpacks & the sealant has had sufficient time to completely cure without fixing problem or as you say making it worse I would be borrowing some known good coilpacks to substitute & check. Also I'm told that the factory Nissan oil pressure senders/gauges on Skylines are notoriously dodgy but you could also have bad electrical earthing causing your combined problem.

My 2c

Cheers GW

Hi there, dunno what your problem is but seems like there are two which could be related. If you have sealed up your cracked coilpacks & the sealant has had sufficient time to completely cure without fixing problem or as you say making it worse I would be borrowing some known good coilpacks to substitute & check. Also I'm told that the factory Nissan oil pressure senders/gauges on Skylines are notoriously dodgy but you could also have bad electrical earthing causing your combined problem.

My 2c

Cheers GW

I might have to borrow my mates Splitfires and see if that helps. I heard to that the factory gauges shit at the best of times

too.

Put mates Splitfire's in and worked for about 10mins and the problem came back again so it's not the coils. Put my standard coils back in, sprayed coil pack module with contact cleaner and kept the vally cover off this time and the problem didn't come back after 10 mins, so i gave it a boot and it did it abit on boost. Maybe the coil pack module is getting too hot? Any one got a CPM i can borrow in Perth to test for 5 mins? Cheers

Edited by AE86 Spoontah

Found that the problem was the ignitor was getting too much heat soak in the hot weather so i relocated it next to the brake booster and have no problems with misfiring even on a 40 degree day. Crisis averted haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...