Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahaha for sure.

Have you ever thought about carbon door card inserts?

Where the cloth etc is on the front doors and rear passenger cards? (Where I have the skulls etc) Was going to do soemthing like that on my 180, but never got to for obvious reasons.

Full door would just be a bit of a pain with heat in the sun etc, but just the section would be cool and not over the top IMO.

Nismo stuff should be here next week (yay!)

Floor mats, b pillars, spoiler end caps, oil and radiator caps (mainly for wank haha)

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah have thought about carbon door inserts plenty of times. However given that the door is one solid piece i'm not sure how you would go about it. Hence probably why no one has ever done it. I dunno. Would definetely be nice and something i'd definetely be keen on.

Lemme see if I can find the thing for a 180 / s13 as they are the same "1 piece" cards aswell...

Found - http://www.mekaru.jp/S13innna-doapaneru%20setumei.html

it's basically glued in there.

Edited by Force Fed

Lemme see if I can find the thing for a 180 / s13 as they are the same "1 piece" cards aswell...

Found - http://www.mekaru.jp/S13innna-doapaneru%20setumei.html

it's basically glued in there.

Oh nice! Well maybe this is something that is doable then. Might have to speak to some people and see what they can make.

tomorrows job chris ;) gonna cut the glass outta the spare hatch n see how it all aligns n such

let us know how it lines up.

does it have the holes for the brake light & wiper? if yours turns out ok and with the holes i may grab 1.

i have few things at home waiting, the car will look diffrent next time you see it.

how did you go with getting a plenum made?

chris- hows ur rig going?

phil- stop buggering around with carbon bits :nyaanyaa:

Edited by robbo_rb180

Drove past, Coops' GTR was there, that's about all I could see HAHA

oh and some EVO's.

Rob, GTR is in the shed waiting for the motor to be built. I want more boost!

How long until you're back mate?

Hahaha. You won't be saying that when I get you a carbon hatch :whistling:

i'll see how nics looks with the glass in it first, then i'll have to ask the boss

ill take a few pics rob and i asked about the plenum he will get back to me.... nothing so far haha

i''ll hit him up about the plenum

Drove past, Coops' GTR was there, that's about all I could see HAHA

oh and some EVO's.

Rob, GTR is in the shed waiting for the motor to be built. I want more boost!

How long until you're back mate?

pussy just drive it til it goes bang :nyaanyaa: . i should be back end jan-early feb

i am going to be having a massive parts clearance when i get back so if anyone wants a rb25, wheels, bodykits, guages etc let me know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...