Jump to content
SAU Community

Bleeding Coolant


craig132
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey hey, does anybody know how to flush coolant from a rb25 engine block? the radiators removed and i have all the AC removed so i cant turn the heater on, and not sure on other ways to do it, cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey hey, does anybody know how to flush coolant from a rb25 engine block? the radiators removed and i have all the AC removed so i cant turn the heater on, and not sure on other ways to do it, cheers

you just need 2 block off the bottom hose, fill up the motor with water thru the top hose ,unblock the bottom hose to drain it again,. do that a few times should acheive what you want to do you might want 2 take out the thermostat first..

Edited by Craig SLO33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just did this 2 days ago lol

what i did was first undo top radiator hose then the bottom one i then flushed with water and then (first time trying this) ran compressed air through the system to flush out every last bit this cleaned out almost all of the old coolant as i know i used 8L of fresh coolant and the rb25 takes about that much.

alternatively there is a bolt on the drivers side of the engine that u can un do to drain every thing and then u could flush with water *note u need three bond 1386B to seal the bolt

and also when toping up with water only use distilled or (better) because tap water is what causes corrosion. i used 10L distilled water and 1L of coolant concentrate. also distilled water will extend the life of ur coolant so u dont need to change it as often

¿? why do we need a thermostat especially in sumer ? was thinking of taking mine out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the thermostat is needed at all times to make the car run properly. running without it can actually cause overheating issues, as weird as it sounds, if you are driving it hard. it will also cause you to use much more fuel not having it in as it will take you car much longer to heat up and on the highway the temp can drop back down to where the car is on cold temp enrichment. to explain that a bit better, when the car is cold the ecu makes the car run a bit richer than when it is at operating temp. it is basically like having the choke on on an engine that does have fuel injection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have a question with regards to R34 GTR guards. All the info here is quite old. Useful, but old. At what point does the bumper itself become a clearance issue with wide wheels on a R34 GTR, specifically the part I've drawn in red here: All of the info that people post about implies that 285 is as far as you'd go before scrubbing becomes an issue, but they speak of hitting the inner plastic liners, not the bumper itself. Just how wide could you go if you took the liners out? Has anyone done it? I have been messing with my own car and spacers and heavily cursed my lack of planning, but I might not feel so bad if there's actually no gains to be had by going a GTR guard and front bar combination for $5k+ of money I do not have after spending about that much already on my solution which now has problems. (Woo) At least I now know why GTR guards and bumpers flare out like this over their GTT lesser cousins. I feel that in 2024, someone has gone further and attempted to run 315's or somesuch on the front of a R34 GTR. If you have, please post. If you're tried and failed for some other reason definitely post so I feel better about my mistakes
    • Genuine URAS Type R front guards in FRP. These will fit a GTT. They will only fit a GTT. If you have a GT or GTT and want wider fenders with a Z tune look up top, this is what you want. You use this with a regular GTT fitment bar. Not a GTR bar. They fit GTT guard liners and plastics, not GTR items. So if you're reading this thinking "Ah! I have a GTT or GT and want wider front guards that bolt directly on, but do not want the hassle of changing my bonnet and bumper and plastics and undertrays or anything else, this is what you want. The fitment is annoyingly perfect. I really would rather someone pick these up in person and not ship them. SE Melb.
    • Why didn't you buy the one I originally linked in QLD which was about 18k and in massively better condition with about 30k of tastefulmods holyshitmygodjesuschristman.
    • hey mate so i was in a similar position needing something better than oem for track but also wanting it to look the part, i went for APG APG Performance Brakes they are a solid price and i have had no issues with any of the components from them. the rotors and pads can be swapped out for all the usual brands just ensure you are getting the right sizes. i have just a front kit on my car. i would recommend upgrading to a bigger master cylinder as they are a bigger calliper so you can actually notice some increased braking performance 
×
×
  • Create New...