Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

should have explained a little bit better.

basically i have no dash lights or rear parkers i think there called so night driving is not an option at the moment for me because from the rear it looks like i have no lights on and and i cant see how fast im going.

they work on and off and are connected to a different switch ( not the normal one the head lights are connected to ) not sure why this is.

im completely useless with car electrics, what are some things i can check before paying for an auto electrician to look at which at the moment is not an option

Not sure if it's related - but on N14's - when rear parkers / interior dash lights go - they're on the same fuse under the dash. For me, they'd blow when they were getting a dodgy signal from the illumination wire in the radio (for some reason on N14's it's black - and the previous bozo owner had used it as the ground-wire).

I'd definitely be checking your fuses first and foremost.

check that stupid bloody dimmer also, mine kept f'ing up and blowing globes.

take it out, and bypass it by soldering wires together, replace dimmer, win.

Wouldn't be surprised if the dimmer sits in the same illumination wire for radios/etc - which would make sense (that's the wire I've seen cause problems with the rear parkers/dash lights). So yeah - definitely worth checking the dimmer (if one is fitted).

should have explained a little bit better.

basically i have no dash lights or rear parkers i think there called so night driving is not an option at the moment for me because from the rear it looks like i have no lights on and and i cant see how fast im going.

they work on and off and are connected to a different switch ( not the normal one the head lights are connected to ) not sure why this is.Generally 4 run'n from the fuz

im completely useless with car electrics, what are some things i can check before paying for an auto electrician to look at which at the moment is not an option

hey

let me make sure I've got this right..

your headlights and front parkers are on the standard switch, while the dash and rear are on an aftermarket switch , dash/rear only work sometimes.?

ASSuming this is right then

* get a test light ( even a globe in a socket with 30cm of wires)

to use conect one wire to the chasis and 'probe' with the other

* have a look at the aftermarket switch, it should have a power feed (Acc of IGN) and a feed that goes to the taillights/dash

* the second feed ( tail lights) will need to be hooked to the parkers feed on the standard switch

I'd also trace the power feed back and remove ( could go to fuse panel/durry lighter/anywhere really)

I doubt the dimmer would be the culprit as tail lights are generally not dimmed ( unless your doin the afore mentioned runner ) they can blow dash globes when faulty though

cheers

post or PM if ya need more help

EDIT:: just had a thread reRead are we talking an R33 or a SENATOR ???

Edited by BundyBear

Could also be a problem with the contacts on the switch that the stalk connects to.

Had to change that assembly on a friends R31 once. He had no left headlight until I changed it.

Try what other suggestions have been put up here as well first. If you really get stuck & are in the western suburbs I'd be happy to offer help.

I'm an electronics tech & have done more than my fair share of wiring work on cars lately....

Not all Jap cars have dash dimmers, when the cars are complied they are added if they don't have them and generally the dimmer switches used are cheap shitty. Just do away with the dimmer and the rear parkers would be on a different circuit, if they weren't when you dim the dash you would also be dimming the parkers.

With the parkers I'd look at the fuses first and then the the bulbs if the fuses are good

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...