Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all...

sorry if this topic has been covered but had a quick search and nothing popped up.

so i have had the RB25 in the car for a while and the motor is sitting fair bit higher than the RB20.

Have swapped to an rb25 cross member and mounts and still sits high, cant get strut brace on, bonnet has been raised at the rear prior to conversion so it still closes..

any suggestions on how to drop the motor as i heard 25 cross member should sort it out.

cheers

Brenton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306324-rb25-conversion-sitting-high/
Share on other sites

uuummmm pass...

i know that people use them to fit rb25s into 180s, i havnt done the conversion myself

however one of my mates is doing the conversion, he might be able to shed some light on it when he gets on the net tonight

Just use the RB20 rubber mounts and elongate the holes on the cross member so instead of two holes, there is a long slot. Make sure you get the engine close to central when going back in. That should drop the engine by 20mm.

Or put your 32 crossmember back in and just use the RB20 mounts with that.. EASY

hey man

i am also using rb20 mounts for everything, mine fits fine.. for the gearbox i used the rb20 mounts also however ive heard there are 3 types (A,B,C) im using the type b ones and they fit exaclty.

Edited by niran

have heard there is variations on the mounts and cross members for the 20....

i am still running the 20 gearbox... and as said previously was originally running the 20 cross member and mounts and brackets.. but motor was sitting really high with this... was told the 25 cross member and mounts will sit lower... put it in and not so :P

heard someting about cefiro cross member but unsure on truth in this

You are doing something wrong. Your 32 is the same as every other 32 on the planet. Use the Alloy mount brackets or the steel ones from the 20, it doesn't matter. Just make sure you use the RB20 rubber mounts and it will fit properly. The block and head height is identical.

Where is your strut brace touching?

nope nothing is on the wrong side....

find it kinda difficult to do something wrong with it dude....

my thoughts are as previously stated with 3 different types of engine mounts i may have one that sits differently..

when i was speaking to a few mechanics (well known workshops) before i did the conversion they told me that its not uncommon for them to sit high for some reason and it just seems to vary from one to the otehr.. he didnt understand it either.

as i said previously i have tried using both combinations ie all 20 bits and all 25 bits...

both sit high... the strut brace sits on the intake plenum and sits around 10mm or so above the strut tower..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...