Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas Light & No Power Steering

awsam

By awsam,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
Posted

This last week my R33 S1 has been losing power steering, only after a reasonably long trip though. Say about 45min to an hour of driving. When i stop the car and then start it again minutes later the Hicas light is on and I have no power steering. Anyone local have any experience with this issue? Also this week there's been a sickly tapping or knocking noise comming from under the bonnet somewhere. Sound gets faster when I rev the car. Just mentioning it in case the two are related

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306545-hicas-light-no-power-steering/
Share on other sites
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That was my first thought but fluid level was right where it needed to be.

checked engine oil, that sickly tapping noise sounds like my engine rev fast knock goes faster = spun bearing

Yah engine oil is still at a good level and a good colour. What was your spun bearing in?

Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

Silly question, but are all your belts still there? Not spinning on the pulleys?

Could be a speed sensor issue, both the HICAS and power steer need the speed sensor to detect how fast your going. I'd be doing a search on that, maybe something's come unplugged or broken. Speedo working? If not I'd be pretty sure that that's the problem.

AshesR33 Rookie

AshesR33

Posted
Posted

I have a similar problem with my HICAS but now stays on all the time, from what I have read mine is probably the HICAS ECU not working but haven't had the chance to change it over to see if that fixes it, will let you know if I do fix it.

I used to have a similar noise from the engine (was after some spirited driving), oil was a liitle low and sounded like lifter noise changed the oil and noise has basically dissapeared apart from when first started for about 10 seconds. hope this info helps a bit.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The sickly noise sounded like a really loud tractor, noise started one day very quiet then 2 days later it was real loud and like a said a tractor. Also started nearly stalling. Replaced plugs and flushed oil and its almost completely gone. Mechanic said Lifters were blocked a little.

Will try and do a hicas diagnostic today. Mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the power steering (although I dont think he looked to closely) The power steering is starting to cut out more frequently now. Last week it was only after a 45 min plus drive. Now after like 15 min if I stop and turn the engine off, then turn back on HICAS light on and no power steer..

Have a slight rubbing noise from the belts atm, just had a new timing belt put in so I'm not sure if its that or not.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
need to describe the knocking noise better... power steering pump fail?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWP4FryCqsw

Hopefully this link will work, this is a video of how the engine was before it got fixed. Mechanic said a mixture of bad spark plugs and blocked Lifters.

Couldnt get the diagnostic to start today :happy:

Edited by awsam
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted
that def sounds like there is no oil getting pumped up too the head is your oil pressure gauge showing anything at all ?

Yah oil pressure gage is usually above the half way mark, bounces around slightly depending on temp and how spirited I'm driving lol But generally stays above half way.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Now that it's cooled down in Adelaide a bit I'm finding that the Hicas & Power steering thing isn't happening at all unless I've driven my car for quite a while. So seems heat related. A search in google found me 3 solutions other people have had. One person replaced the speed sensor, another replaced a specific capacitor in the hicas unit or something that was leaking black stuff on the circuit board, another simply unplugged his battery to reset the computer. I haven't tried any yet since it cooled down. Seems like a common problem with R33's after searching it, I'm surprised there aren't more detailed solutions especially on here.

5LTBETR Proficient

5LTBETR

Posted
Posted

ur power steering pump is f**ked,

the knocking is the bearing in the front of the pump, once the sensor on the power steering line under the motor senses pressure drop , it routes all the fluid bypassing the rack,

get a new pump.

awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ur power steering pump is f**ked,

the knocking is the bearing in the front of the pump, once the sensor on the power steering line under the motor senses pressure drop , it routes all the fluid bypassing the rack,

get a new pump.

How much does one of them go for? Is it a big job replacing?? Are you going by the video I posted? Because that turned out to be blocked Lifters :D Your description sounds about right though ^_^

  • 3 weeks later...
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

**UPDATE**

Went to Synergy to plug into their scanner and my Hicas wouldn't respond at all. Didn't matter if Hicas light was on or off.

Leads me to think a thread I found in google about a transistor in the Hicas computer leaking black stuff could be the cause. Need to try and borrow a working Hicas from somewhere so I can plug it in and test it out as I can't afford to buy a new one and just wait and see..

  • 3 weeks later...
awsam Rising Star

awsam

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Another update, Synergy put another HICAS in and still no communication.

**UPDATE**

Went to Synergy to plug into their scanner and my Hicas wouldn't respond at all. Didn't matter if Hicas light was on or off.

Leads me to think a thread I found in google about a transistor in the Hicas computer leaking black stuff could be the cause. Need to try and borrow a working Hicas from somewhere so I can plug it in and test it out as I can't afford to buy a new one and just wait and see..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...