Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you wont get a private drift day for 220 bucks wayne, ita a max of 10 cars

its round the 350 mark

This expensive... Hmmm... Still worth it for the amount of track time you get Vs. a prac night.

20 cars on a drift day would be perfect, 2 groups of 10, rotating and not unbelivably expensive

^ only thing I'm iffy about with a private day is stacking my car or it breaking something early in the day (both highly likely :()

Paying $130ish bucks to hit the track and only getting half a session is pretty frustrating, paying almost 3 times that and getting a half hour or so of skids would piss me right the fuck off.

If I was confident in my shitbox lasting I'd be so down for private days but rocking normal pracs is providing plenty of fun/lols for the time being.

Very valid point, thats what I was worried about at drift school. First outting in the car had no idea how it would go and going out for 30 minutes and then having to put it on the trailer would have pissed me off so much lol

No skid pan work jess.

Chad, Craig, Andrew... who is heading out for a skid aug 14? any other first timers coming out for some fun?

i would head up but im going to melb to party

sept skids get on it

tandemsss

melb sounds fun :).

Tandems in sept it is mang!

bar tabs are even better ;D

<3 engagement parties haha

yep, im gonna be out there again, so keen to test the hydro :(

ill be out in sept to test my hydro out :D

Them ones look decent Mitch but I'd feel unco with the upright hydro lol. and to make it legal you must maintain a mechanical handbrake i.e. like what I am running.

only one bolt stopping it from being horizontal :)

and ill be keeping the stock handbrake , just gotta confirm it with vehicle standards :(

those hyrdos can run vertical OR horizontal

correctomondo !

I got brand spankers. Would like a pair of 80ish %'ers just incase too.

i hate using 2nd hand tyres, the f**kers delam after 10 laps, then your in the pits changing wheels and then you loose track time etc. meanwhile the tyres are cheaper... you probably worse off in the loss of track time and the pain in the ass that the 2nd handies don't last f**k all unless you get a set that dont delam

I got brand spankers. Would like a pair of 80ish %'ers just incase too.

i hate using 2nd hand tyres, the f**kers delam after 10 laps, then your in the pits changing wheels and then you loose track time etc. meanwhile the tyres are cheaper... you probably worse off in the loss of track time and the pain in the ass that the 2nd handies don't last f**k all unless you get a set that dont delam

i went through one set of brand new jin yu's at drift school and i wasnt exactly driving easy :)

deff will buy newies before skids again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...