Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

i took my ceffy over the pits the other day and I've failed for a fair few things. It's got an sr20 conversion which is all approved and ok but iv got alot of suspension mods iv bought the car as is and I got the lickie on the way home from picking it up.

Now my question what suspension pieces should I use for a replacement of my coilovers, I have a few adjustable arms such as toe and camber and all the rEst like that. Now I have 5 stud conversion using r32 stuff but I don't no what will fit. Can anyone help?

I bought some standard Cefiro suspension over Ebay when I got done about 2 years ago now...

Anyway, fronts were good.. still using them now (after second defect :D) but the shocks in the rears were gone. Anyway, I decided to go with R32, borrowed from a mate, and they worked fine. Been over with them in twice now.

However, the fronts from a 32 wont work because they have 2 bolts not 3, so S13 is the way to go if you cant source any A31 parts.

Hope it helps a little..

Good luck :P

Adam.

for your brake conversion, the easiest way is to re drill the r32 discs to four stud, and all will fit, you can use the the rear brake hoses of the r32, and use the cef ones for the front but you will need to shorten the banjo bolts, If you want to go 5 stud, the s14 hubs are needed, but you need to fit r32 lower arms to match the ball joint, the 2 s14 hub to strut connecting bolts are slightly larger and the strut holes need to be enlarged slightly, an easier option is to buy 5 stud hub adapters for the fronts

for your brake conversion, the easiest way is to re drill the r32 discs to four stud, and all will fit, you can use the the rear brake hoses of the r32, and use the cef ones for the front but you will need to shorten the banjo bolts, If you want to go 5 stud, the s14 hubs are needed, but you need to fit r32 lower arms to match the ball joint, the 2 s14 hub to strut connecting bolts are slightly larger and the strut holes need to be enlarged slightly, an easier option is to buy 5 stud hub adapters for the fronts

she already has had a five stud conversion done using all r32 to gear

So s13 front struts fit? do s13 castor rods fit to? iv got my r32 at home I can borrow parts off but only temporarly as in trying to sell it. Cheers for the help

put simply all s13 suspension parts will fit ,castor brackets will not fit but castor rod will

r32 gtst rear stuff will all fit cept for lower control arms as they have a different coupling at the ball joint which needs u be grinded and bashed off( but seeing that u have r32 5 stud they will bolt up), unsure on hicas but is similar.

front r32 gtst the sway bar shud be the only thing that fits so castor rods will not fit

although you should be looking here!

has been covered

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/A3...ist-t93523.html

Edited by Dan_J

use S13 struts, but beware it will sit lower than standard.

Camber / traction arms / toe arms use S13.

pretty much use everything s13, but im guessing there would be S14 front lower control arms and hubs in the front, as 32 does not fit, so you will have to redrill the holes in the front struts or get some spacers so the bolts sit properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...