Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all i've done a few searches and couldn't find anything on changing the oil for a GTR34.

Few questions is it the same as changing other car oils ? i use to do my Evo 8

Simply remove 1 bolt flush oil replace oil filter + get new oil

does anyone know which side of the GTR is the filter located at is it under the car ?

i was thinking of using 10-40w royal purple oil

thanks !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306869-oil-change-gtr34-v-spec/
Share on other sites

prados are right next to the oil filler cap... and they have a little well with a drain tube that comes out next to the sump plug..

i think the worst oil filter location is on old 4wd hiluxs... its upside down, but right above one of the steering links... so you cant get a claw and a ratchet on it... there isnt enough room to use a filter strap.. and not enough room to get both hands on it.

the only way to do it is with a claw, jammed in on a funny angle, which pierces the bottom of the filter, causing dirty black diesel oil to drain down you ratchet and your arm and into your armpit before youve even got the filter loose... then the oil drips down onto all the steering links and muck covered front diff housing, which then starts to splatter as it hits. and run from one side to the other, dripping a nice black mess all over the floor.

after doing them day in day out.... any filter seems good!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...