Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

just trying to get my carnary off, and have hit a brick wall i have a 400r type front with clear indicator lenses...now i have changed the globes to smaller ones with orange condom things and they blink too quickly and there arent really orange....i have also asked about nail polish and salaphane (spelling)...and ppl say it wont really work ... so i need some help.....bcoz i dont really want to change my front indicator lenses....

ok here are some pics

this is the front bar

here is the new globe which i think is too small and voltage wrong and why it now blinks too fast...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30698-urgentindicator-globe-probcarnary/
Share on other sites

What is the actual problem? The lights are flashing too quickly because the wattage is too low, this is a safety feature that makes the indicators flash faster when a globe is blown. to get away with a smaller wattage globe on the front bar you need to fit a resistor of the correct value to present the correct load to your flasher unit. Any decent electronics store will advise you correctly on which resistor to fit. tell them the old globe was 21 watt and the new one is "?" and they can do the math. hope this helps

I found this on the hella website part No WY125 Its an amber wedge rated at 12 watts .... well worth checking out http://www.hella.com.au goto catalogue then automotive globes, then wedge based globes....down the bottom i dont know if it will be enough to slow the flasher down enough but for the few dollars they will cost.... who cares?? :D

hey guys,

Well the problem is the orange bulbs that you can buy from anywhere are too big and dont fit... the old blobes i had were fine blinked properly but they were clear....and i went around everywhere and no one could find the same globe in orange...now i have those smalled ones one wit a condom orange thing and they blink too fast and arent really bright...guess ill just have to go to an auto elec....anyone know of a good auto elec around the western sub area...?

thank for replies guys!

OAK DUDE, I AM an auto elec and I can only give so much advice.... Ring around tomorrow morning and get your hands on the globes that i have specified (they are orange .....good...... and they are of a higher wattage....good..... and try them) If they still flash too fast then go to a jaycar or dick smith and get the apppropriate resistors to make them flash at the correct rate! I have come accross this problem before and it is not that big a deal to rectify. The genuine aftermarket front bars as supplied in Japan with different bulbs come with the resistors fitted to the replacement blinker assembly. If you go to an Auto Elec you will leave with a very light wallet... this is a fact. Please call me if you can't sort it out yourself as i am happy to help. Or just come and see me cos i'll take your money!!!! :D

OAK DUDE, I AM an auto elec and I can only give so much advice.... Ring around tomorrow morning and get your hands on the globes that i have specified (they are orange .....good...... and they are of a higher wattage....good..... and try them) If they still flash too fast then go to a jaycar or dick smith and get the apppropriate resistors to make them flash at the correct rate! I have come accross this problem before and it is not that big a deal to rectify. The genuine aftermarket front bars as supplied in Japan with different bulbs come with the resistors fitted to the replacement blinker assembly. If you go to an Auto Elec you will leave with a very light wallet... this is a fact. Please call me if you can't sort it out yourself as i am happy to help. Or just come and see me cos i'll take your money!!!! :D

you have a pm....

i painted my globes with nailpolish. and as above done three good coats and all is good.

most globes that can be used as indicator lights now come in orange anyway so it shouldnt be hard to get a set.

also the best and easiest way u can fix the indicators flashing problem is to fit higher wattage globes.

you could just go to a model car/plane shop and get some transparent orange paint. I've done it before. Give it 3 coats, letting it dry between each coat and you should be right.

Or what he said :)

well just got back from kmart with the paint $2 the price was right...hope it is the right one....?

well i painted one thick and one thinner what do you guys think?

also can you guys tell im quite the handy man... :bs!:

oh well i have taken a pic gotta luv the digi cam..... :aroused:

You didn't get the transparent paint!!! It basically looks like apple juice, but a different colour. You can see right through it but it's tinted :)

It should do the job though. You can just get another couple of globes for like a buck and use the proper paint next time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
    • I don't think he's got it on a gauge and on the ECU. I think he's got it on the gauge and on the HPTuners DAq thingo. Remember, we're talking about oil temp here, not something that the ECU is actually interested in for its own sake.
×
×
  • Create New...