Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so after my boost gauge has been sitting on my desk collecting dust for a few months i decided i'd have a shot..

after about 5 hours googling, trolling forums etc etc i still cant work it out (i have no electrical knowledge at all) and im not paying someone $100+ for something that probably takes 30 mins to do.. (yes ive rung sooo many auto electricians, cheapest was $100/hr)

questions

1. seeing as i have 3 greddy gauges, can i tap the wires from that (ground, power etc?) The Greddy gauges have the same wiring as the "autogauge" boost gauge.

2. If im able to tap those wires, all i then need to do is tpiece the vacuum line, mount the gauge, thats it right?

apologies for yet another "boost gauge" thread :happy: I know nothing about wiring (im at the point where i need pictures of what i need to tap / wire up)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307242-boost-gauge-install/
Share on other sites

hey mate where are you located? if you have a greddy slim series you dont need to wire it in they use power off the exsisting gauges.. if your close to mt gravatt i'll give you a hand wiring it in if you want ... simple really hardest part is mounting it lol

hey mate where are you located? if you have a greddy slim series you dont need to wire it in they use power off the exsisting gauges.. if your close to mt gravatt i'll give you a hand wiring it in if you want ... simple really hardest part is mounting it lol

im over in paddington / ashgrove area. I think mine are the slim series like the one attached except i only have water temp, oil temp, oil pressure. Not sure what you mean, i dont need to wire my gauge in it uses power off the existing gauges? (how does it get power without wiring in?) or do u mean is the boost gauge a Greddy slim series gauge?

boostgauge.jpg

did a mock install before i tried it

photo below, the 2 top bits (the wiring and the filter thing, i have no idea where the filter goes, and i think the wiring is just extra incase you want to have a warning light)

P1010011-1.jpg

pic below is where one of my Greddy gauges is already wired up, black, red and white wire (this was my reason for the topic, can i tap those three wires?)

P1010012.jpg

pic below is apparently the vacuum line (which runs into the black unit which is the stock boost sensor for the stock boost gauge which is right behind the drivers side strut tower)

P1010013.jpg

anyone know if im on the right track?

Edited by defari

first pic.. those ms paint bits you added to ask questions.. even on 400% zoom i couldn't even make out what you wrote..

why don't you get power off the ciggy lighter or something inside your dash that uses power when the car is started.. that way your not taking lines all the way to the engine..

if you got a factory vacuum line.. are you still using the factory boost gauge? if not then use that instead of the line with your gauge.. if you are then just cut into it and install that tee (one you circled

ah ok its a auto gauge.. well its better if you run the 12V acc power off your stereo , earth it either near the fuse box the bolts that hold the bonnet opener , one connects to your illumination (dims itself at nite) , the other is constant 12V this can be used from your stereo , you can earth it using the steel caddy around the headunit ...

by the way just to let you know you shouldnt tap into the Greedy sensor wires as that will stuff your gauge reading .. thats mainly for the sensor to convert it from analog (vaccum) to digital pressure for the gauge to read...

why don't you mount the gauge.. hook up the +ve -ve etc wires that you know where they go.. then try bribe a workshop to hook up the last bit for cheap.. tht way you've done most of the work and they make a quick $$$ for little effort

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...