Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

every state is different, if your determined to do it legally best check with the relevant authorities. I know over here in WA, they have recently changed the rules to allow you to go lower as alot of newer car's were below it, there is still other rules regarding headlight height etc that then take affect.

alot of laws relate back to adr (australian design rules) and that specifies basically 100mm forward of front most axle, and rearwards of furthest rear axle.. but inbetween, you can be lower based apon a forumula that incorporates the length of the vehicle, the wheel base and then a percentage... which then give you the lowest legal hieght for the centre section of the car

alot of people even police will tell you its 100mm in most states, but infact adr over rules alot of these in alot of cases, i know victoria have vicroads guide lines which are based on adr, and have basic specifications with references to adr's for detailed specifications

If you want to stay hassle free, I'd stay about the 100mm all around.

My stock series 2, except for some Tein low down style master coilovers, sits at 350mm front and rear. The exhuast next to the diff is getting pretty close to the 100mm point.

I have dropped my S1 a bit further on the Bilsteins and its now 340 front 350 rear which is about as low as i want to go. As someone pointed out lower than that (apart from bottoming out on driveways) you start putting excessive angles on your universals (CV joints).

At the above ride heights its comfortably above the 100mm min. In NZ you have to have a minimum of 100mm below any substantial part of the car (diff, sump, chassis rails) but not including appendages such as exhaust or side skirts.

For QLD drivers

http://pan.search.qld.gov.au/search/click....lection=qld-gov

that should give you all the info you need.

I would assume all states would have a similar information package.

Edited by reiseva

Don't forget that, regardless of how high your car is centre of wheel to guard, things like exhausts may still be lower than the 100mm limit. I've heard that sometimes the car is measured with a full load, i.e. if you're driving around with passengers and/or a load, the car is measured to make sure it STILL sits above the legal height. *Disclaimer: that might be speculation, I'm not sure how true it is...

Best to check with your state's authorities, although it's about bloody time they nationalise the standards so we don't have to worry as much if/when we take our cars interstate.

Another thing is that ADR's should out-rule any local state rules, but it doesn't always happen that way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
×
×
  • Create New...