Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So just chasing some advice.

R32 running RB25DET

T04E highmounted.

Car started burning oil.

Compression tested all 6 read around 160

Cleaned PCV still no luck.

tried thicker oil.

Assumed it was the turbo so i had it rebuilt.

Refitted all ok. Car still burns oil and is getting worse.

Disconnected breathers and started engine.

Intake side has no air movement.

However exhaust breather chuffs like a steam train.

Does this sound like valve stem seals to anyone or have a smashed something ?

Car burns oil pretty much from cold driving. more so under boost.

Any ideas ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307447-ahhh-me-blue-smoke/
Share on other sites

are the breathers sucking or blowing at idle? one way valve disconnected/blocked when testing?

one way valve disconnected. intake no movement at all. exhaust side blowing at idle.

Also car still pulls hard no miss firing etc etc

Edited by r32pat
sounds like the cross over may be blocked if the intake side seems like "nothing" and outlet is pumping it out...

this is with all breathers disconnected and the exhaust side just venting at idle. so in this case the cross over pipe between both rockers isnt attached.

Note this was only for testing of course.

this is with all breathers disconnected and the exhaust side just venting at idle. so in this case the cross over pipe between both rockers isnt attached.

Note this was only for testing of course.

PCV connected or disconnected?

PCV connected or disconnected?

tried both under driving conditions. no change

Its been bugging me for months. I have a R34 4 door daily and been busy at work so i havent been able to play with my r32 for a while.

So i really appreicate the responses. Its been doing my head in lol.

Edited by r32pat
tried both under driving conditions. no change

Its been bugging me for months. I have a R34 4 door daily and been busy at work so i havent been able to play with my r32 for a while.

So i really appreicate the responses. Its been doing my head in lol.

I'm talking during your test.

I'm talking during your test.

Yep tried both during my tests at idle.

i have tried everything you guys have suggested so far in the past with no luck.

I have another engine lined up worse case senario. But who doesnt wanna save some money if its something like stem seals?? lol

Edited by r32pat
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...