Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I could borrow anyone's Greddy Profec B spec II controller, just need to conect it up take the car for a spin to see if my controller is stuffed. Have already changed the solenoid with no luck. Checked the continuity of solenoid control loom, all good.

Please let me know if you can help.

Located near Tea Tree Plaza.

Cheers,

Kym

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307581-any-one-got-profec-b-spec-ii/
Share on other sites

If I could borrow anyone's Greddy Profec B spec II controller, just need to conect it up take the car for a spin to see if my controller is stuffed. Have already changed the solenoid with no luck. Checked the continuity of solenoid control loom, all good.

Please let me know if you can help.

Located near Tea Tree Plaza.

Cheers,

Kym

hey mate,

what exactly is it doing/not doing?

I burnt through my vacuum lines at my wastegate and it did that, hows your lines ?

i highly doubt the controller is faulty. check your in-line filter, as well as all your lines. What does your boost gauge idle at?

How would I hook the solenoid up to the Power FC?

as far as i am aware, you cannot. Apexi make a PFC boost controller, but it is $400-$700 extra!

there should be an inline filter between the pressure source and the controller unit, otherwise any crap can daamge the pressor sensor inside the unit.

Also, might be worth checking for a vacuum leak, because as Krishy said, it should read -99 at idle.

all else fails, do a reset (RTFM), and go see a tuner.

as far as i am aware, you cannot. Apexi make a PFC boost controller, but it is $400-$700 extra!

there should be an inline filter between the pressure source and the controller unit, otherwise any crap can daamge the pressor sensor inside the unit.

Also, might be worth checking for a vacuum leak, because as Krishy said, it should read -99 at idle.

all else fails, do a reset (RTFM), and go see a tuner.

yep spot on nigel.....you cannot hook up a greddy product to an apexi product and make it work lol.....well havent seen one so far

as nigel said check all your vacuum lines...replace them if you have to....and google up some settings....if worst case scenario then take it to a mechanic and get it looked at/tunned

i would just keep the 2 separately mate....the profec will do its job and the pfc will do its job lol....

well hopefully whatever problem you have had gets sorted out soon....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...