Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi everyone basically can anybody point out where the VCT plug is so i can diagnose if it is working or not by unplugging it and my second question is can my SAFC neo be used to control my VCT?

thanks and sorry if this has been covered before didnt find anything with SAFC and VCT

for R33 RB25DET S1.5

Edited by Pr0j3kt_Supra
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308386-safc-neo-vct/
Share on other sites

I'm pretty sure the SAFC is unable to control the VCT. The way VCT works is not like how V-TEC works in Hondas.

VCT on a stock car disengages aroudn 4700rpm where as in a Honda usually it engages at a higher rpm point.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308386-safc-neo-vct/#findComment-5089661
Share on other sites

sorry for the confusion... ok currently the car feels sluggish with no response so i want to check where the VCT plug is i want to make sure the VCT is functioning....

second i have a safc NEO...the neo features VTEC control thoght maybe can rig it up to make it work with the nissan VCT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308386-safc-neo-vct/#findComment-5090916
Share on other sites

sorry for the confusion... ok currently the car feels sluggish with no response so i want to check where the VCT plug is i want to make sure the VCT is functioning....

second i have a safc NEO...the neo features VTEC control thoght maybe can rig it up to make it work with the nissan VCT

If you're standing in front of the motor, it is on the LHS, where the plenum is.. kind of hard to explain without a photo

and yes NEO has V-TEC control but like I said before Nissan's VCT is TOTALLY different to how VTEC works, so no you cannot rig that shet up.

Car running slow? try disconnecting your SAFC, you've probably have the car running rich as.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308386-safc-neo-vct/#findComment-5091063
Share on other sites

it would be strange that VCT would magically die

i dont think we see very often that VCT dies

are you sure it's just died?

has someone been fiddling and then you think it's died?

have you played around with the wiring loom before hand?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308386-safc-neo-vct/#findComment-5093411
Share on other sites

just purchased the car a few days ago.... shoulda looked into it when purchasing... but yeh fed the soleniod 12V at idle and while the engine was off no click no nothing...

so this is what i know so far, the ecu is feeding the soleniod the signal (tested the plug with multimeter while reving in gear)

car drives the same plugged and un plugged( can feel power arnd the 5-6K mark but nothing before)

the soleniod is not making and noise when fed 12V

anybody have any suggestions in what else i should check? what could cause VCT death?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308386-safc-neo-vct/#findComment-5094709
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...