Jump to content
SAU Community

Scooter Importing?

Mr Eps
 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

you want a scooter and don't have much money. my advice is forget importing. all the little costs add up and make it completely not viable for a 1 off thing. if you want to import say 10 and fill a container THEN it's worthwhile.

but back to the probrem.

I have a solution.

you have not much money.

you want scooter with good storage.

you want scooter that is fun to ride and a bit different.

you need a Yamaha BeeWee YW100. they are 100cc 2 stroke. They have good storage. They are nice and light and the 100cc 2 stroke is a great engine. They will do over 100km/h even with a 100kg rider on it. They are very light (less than 100kg) so easy to throw around and good on fuel. Yes they are 2 stroke but have oil injection so no need to mix fuel. just fill up the oil tank every now and then, and when you need fuel just fill up like normal. the best part for you is they can be bought brand new from a dealer for $3500 including all on road costs so if you have $3500 you can buy one and ride it out with rego and CTP no prob.

They are japanese and as reliable as can be.

If you are nuts there are lots of mods for them. Stroker kit (few hundred), exhaust (couple hundred), different bits and pieces to make them go.

Plus they sound and look good. sound much nicer than your average POS 4 stroke scoot.

this could be you!

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C02%5C16...185397-full.jpg

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2008%5C12%5C22...516163-full.jpg

or this:

http://p1.bikepics.com/pics/2005\5C12...476472-full.jpg

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

you should be able to get post 88 honda fusions in oz... they were called "Honda CN250" here. I'd say they'd be pretty cheap too cos they look kinda dated in standard form.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

any model that's built in 1988 or earlier is allowed to be imported without restriction. so yeah, pre 88 (and 88 model) fusions will be importable and registerable.

the only other scooter option you should look at though is the Honda Spacy. Nothing beats a spacy.

yeah baby!

ch250-84.jpg

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

sorry didn't read your post properly. not sure on availability of pre-88 fusions in japan sorry. :thumbsup: but the numbers of older cars in japan is not as low as most people would have you believe.

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

doesn't take very long to rebuild a 2 stroke. couple of hours maybe. probably a bit more on a scooter though cause you have to remove a lot more stuff to get to the engine.

i had a scooter when i was about 15 (as well as 3 other full sized bikes at the time: yamaha yz125 and honda XL185 and yamaha TT350). the scooter was epically fun. it was just a 49 one (a honda nifty 50) and it was great fun just to ride around the yard or up and down our road on the farm (private sealed road between the houses and the dairy). handling was weird compared to a big bike though. had some great crashes on it to. 1 big 1 was when i was flying round the yard at full throttle and was probably doing about 35kh around a corner and it was a bit bumpy and i was leant over a fair way. the stand dug into the ground after i went over the biggest bump. next thing i know i'm a ball of arms and legs about 5m from the bike wondering what the shit just happened. worked it out when i walked over to the scooter and saw the big groove in the ground.

as for those of you saying they are uncomfortable to ride for long times, HTFU. at times i would waste a whole afternoon doing laps around the yard on it. go to a point where there were even berms and ruts starting to appear on the corners from riding along the same track all the time so we had to start taking different lines around the corners. god i miss that thing.

personally though, if it's for onroad use, just get an old postie bike. they too are epicly fun. i'm thinking of getting one when i can afford it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...