Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all!

I have an R33 GTR wing, which appears to be genuine, and has Nismo carbon side inserts, and a carbon fibre lip on the end of the wing.

Is this a Nismo item? Or some Nismo bits stuck onto a Nissan wing, or possibly an aftermarket lip and Nismo covers?j

If it's not clear, i'll try to get a picture of it.

Thanks in advance!

-Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309454-r33-gtr-wing-carbon-lip-what-is-it/
Share on other sites

arn't they just stuck onto the side of the original wing? mine is the same and im pretty sure they just stick those carbon fibre looking bits onto the side. You could simply peal it back and it would look like a normal one.

Edited by gersfan

Thanks guys, I bought it because it was relatively cheap, and had the carbon bits and end-caps.

I'm having it repainted black to suit my car and i'll keep those offers in mind. The Nismo bits are indeed some kind of plastic that is stuck to standard-looking end-caps, and my painter will stick them back on after it's all painted.

If i'm strapped for cash, I might pull them off to sell (since there's so much interest in them) What are they worth though?

-Steve

  • 3 years later...

Dammit. I hate when Google takes me back to a thread which is actually the question I was already asking!

The end-caps WERE genuine and the nismo bits were stuck onto them. I'm swapping them over now and have spare carbon-print GTR ones.

Old thread, but FYI for anyone interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...