Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On the basis that I have something far better to do with cash right now than have it sit around in the form of an unused car, I am prepared to sacrifice my GTR for a ridiculous cash price, in order to realise a cash sale in the next 2 weeks at most. Once this period elapses, if the car is not sold, I will be tidying it up to use myself.

You will find details at this link - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Jade-Green-R32-Gtr-Single-t307913.html

I am asking $12500 cash – that is a firm price, it is for a limited time, and no swaps / trades (at this price) will be considered.

To get this car up to an immaculate standard will require;

· $1350 for bodywork (this is a fixed quote – to tidy up scratches, chips, etc). I can arrange this for the buyer.

· $1000 or so for replacement wheels – car is fitted with stockies and they’re not much to look at – trade them up and spend the extra $1K for 18’s or 19’s with good tread

· $650 for minor trim items – such as cracked indicator lens, dash vents, etc – this is a very generous estimate and I reckon it would not cost this much

· $1000 for service, tune, mechanical items as required. Again, a generous estimate that is unlikely to cost this much.

In other words - $12500 + $1350 + $1000 + $650 + $1000 = $16500 to get yourself an immaculate looking, custom sprayed R32 GTR with your choice of rims, heaps of mods and accessories (recently rebuilt RB26 with forged internals, big single turbo and new clutch), serviced and tuned, looking schmik from one end to the other – and with compliance and lots of rego already thrown in. And custom plates too.

No point trying to compare this deal to any other GTR out there because there is nothing that comes close. And frankly, I’m not interested. Not interested in what else you can buy, just in what I can sell. And this thing should really sell itself at this price. My expectation is simple – $12500 cash for the car as is. If I have to spend money or waste time to accommodate the buyer’s requirements, then the price goes up accordingly. So the easier you make it for me, the cheaper you get the car.

  • Test drives will not be given.

  • ‘Interested’ parties will not be taken for a drive until such time as a deposit is forthcoming.

  • Inspections by qualified mechanics are more than welcome (refer to previous note re costs of accommodating buyers requirements).

  • Car will not be removed from storage for anyone who does not turn up with lots of cash already in hand to make deposit if interested – have no time for tyrekickers.

If interested, PM via forum with your name and contact details.

Cheers,

Jez

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309481-green-r32-gtr-for-sale/
Share on other sites

you may have me confused with previous owner (Luke) with whom I did a cash + extras trade.

As it is, yeah I've had numerous accounts over the years (4 or 5 I reckon?) - too hard to remember passwords when they need to be re-set via email accounts I no longer have, so starting new account is simpler process.

  • 2 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Hi Greenr32gtr,

Yes this is my first post in this forum, but that is only becuase i am after a R32 GTR and a mate sent em this post. Please dont take this as BS

I am serious - with cash - in Hobart - please contact me on 0402 450 131 or [email protected] so we can take this further if its not allready sold

I am not after a perfect vehilce just something mechanically sound and interesting i can work with.

Cheers - Sam.

Hi Greenr32gtr,

Yes this is my first post in this forum, but that is only becuase i am after a R32 GTR and a mate sent em this post. Please dont take this as BS

I am serious - with cash - in Hobart - please contact me on 0402 450 131 or [email protected] so we can take this further if its not allready sold

I am not after a perfect vehilce just something mechanically sound and interesting i can work with.

Cheers - Sam.

pretty sure this thing is sold

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...