Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Been spending some time umming and arring about that to do with my 33gtst.

it needs some tlc to go back on the road and i dont know if, when all things are considered, its worth the cost.

If i dont put it back on the road i might aswell sell it, and if i do that, i'm not going to make much selling it as is (the buyer would just end up in the same situation as i am).

So i'm wondering, for those of you who have parted out whole cars, how long did it take and was it worth the money you made?

I dont want to end up with a carcass of a skyline sat on my lawn for the next 6 months so i dont know if its a good call or not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309817-parting-out-cars/
Share on other sites

I kept my R33 after it was written off. I was offered $650 for the wreck by the insurance assessor contacts.

I've probably made $2000 off it so far and it still has the diff, gearbox and head. Thats been about 4 months.

Considering the condition my car was in, I'd say if you have a fairly complete car you could make more stripping it than selling as a whole.

Post up a couple of pictures and give us a general idea of condition. It will help people give you a better response.

I'll take some pics over the weekend, but in the meantime i'll give a general description.

Cars in complete working condition, needs a new clutch as the original factory one is old and slipping.

Exhaust is too noisy, and the head lights wont adjust.

No dents on the car other than a pin dent of the drivers C panel (stone thrown up from someones lawn mower) but there is some paint work required on the front quarter panel and rear bar.

Shocks are dead but i have some newish kyb's in a box ready to go on.

Not rego'd and needs all the slips done, last mechanic i took it to wanted me to find what mods it was approved with when it was first imported and he wanted me to look into the rims and exhaust before he'd slip it :cheers:

So what sort of money would you need to spend for the slips? Are disks/pads, tyres, windscreen roadworthy?

Considering how cheap 33's are at the moment you might be better off parting it out.

General prices I've found for a quickish sale are:

$350 for calipers

$300 for hubs

$300 for headlights

$1200 for gearbox

$1500 to $2000 for complete engine

$200 for diff (if its lsd)

Body panels - bonnet, doors, dront bar etc I'm not sure about. I'd say another $1000-$1500 for them?

Then there are plenty of small bits you'll get $100 for on ebay. Instrument cluster, electric window motors, radiator, seats, boot trim and so on.

After its stripped you can sell the complianced shell.

It will probably take a few months, but could be worth it financially in the end.

sell as is parting out is headchaes u get HEAPS of time wasters and your are left with parts laying around for ages .. you end up scraping by but depends if you have lots of aftermarket shit people would want or just factory stuff.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...