Jump to content
SAU Community

Getting A Tune Next Week . Just Wondering How Much Poweri Could Expect.

smitty 33

By smitty 33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

smitty 33 Collaborator

smitty 33

Posted
Posted

hey guys i have series 1 r33 was just wondering what power i could expect im chasing around 350hp im getting a tune next week just want to know a rough estimate of what i could get.. here are the mods..

-rb25det

-high flowed 33 turbo

-fmic

-3' turbo back exhaust

-700hp fuel pump

- split fire coil packs

-550cc injectors

-malpassi adjustable fuel reg

-wolf 3d v4

-10 puk clutch

-hks mushroom pod

-iridium spark plugs

looking to get it tuned on bout 16-17psi .. let me know what you all think what power figures i should expect.

smitty 33 Collaborator

smitty 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

im nto sure what high flow it is.. but i was told it was a stock highflow just been rebuilt and ive checked the turbo out it .. got my mechanic to take the dump of and put a magnet on the rear wheel ..ooh and 230-260kw sounds goood :)

Edited by smitty 33
Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
hey mate why should i get rid of the malpassi reg?? just curious ? i just bought the thing and got it installed lol ..

Main reason is that a tune is dependant on the fuel pressure it is running at. So if the malpassi fuel reg is running a particular fuel pressure then you go and change it later on, the tune will be out.

Running the stock fuel reg just removes one other thing that can be incorrect. Genuine brands are normally of very good quality.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted (edited)
but also if i never changed the reg ? would it matter?

a malpassi is never going to be more reliable then a genuine nissan one.

plus if you dont raise the fuel pressure over standard then whats the point in having it.

my theory is you want to keep as match factory stuff as possible, minimal mods required for a safe reliable setup.

your 550cc injectors will supply plenty of fuel for you power level so there is no problem there.

Edited by Harey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's the spirit.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ah. I dunno why, but I skim read your earlier post and thought the manual switch was to force it on, not force it off. I'd be tempted to have both. So, your two in series, and another in parallel with those. Or, a master arm switch, followed by the manual force on and the thermo in parallel. 6 and 2 3s.  
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Yeah been doing it in an x shape. Do you reckon it's worth putting guide coat early where the filler isn't sanded down completely smooth? Reason I ask is because as I'm sanding it one part might be level which I don't need to sand anymore but the other part might be high so I can just focus on that instead of sanding across the whole repair area. I wonder if the putty is too thin, though the area is almost completely smooth before I do it as I've already put filler prior.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just 2, and inline. One switch temp related other switch driver controlled.   I'm nearly in my head back to Arduino land for it...
×
×
  • Create New...