Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey every one

I originally had a yellow about 4 months ago and i couldn’t get it off as my engine had oil leaks and reverse wouldn’t engage sometimes.. at the time i was in the process of buying a r33 half cut, so i thought i might as well do the conversion and go over.

After finishing the car off i went to pits and they straight away said they can’t approve this and i need engineering certs. Thinking its better to do the right thing now, i put through the forms to be approved. It took about 3 weeks so then again i needed to extend my yellow (3rd time now). Afterwards i then had to find a approved engineer, as all of you who have been through this knows you get a piece off paper with the names and numbers, i chose Don Stevens.. I came to hes the day that suited him and got the whole car checked out he said everything looks fine and there isn’t any problems and said he will processes that. That was approx. 1 and a half months ago and i still have not received any letters/certs. When i rang the engineer throughout the first few weeks after looking at my car he stated that he was busy and he still hadn’t looked at processing the papers for my car. Today i had to go to pits again this time the pits complained to me that i should hand in my plates and not drive it. I said back “that’s unfair, this is not my fault and it’s my daily car”.. so in the end the pit guys had a talk about it and said they will extend it for 10 days..

Guys i need your help, is there any way i can get this yellow off or what should i do? Im starting to get sick off this, especially when I followed the rules and did the right thing yet it seems like they don’t care much.

If anyone has had any experience and got something sorted to remove the yellow please let me know.

Thanks guys,

Niran

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310531-engineering-certs/
Share on other sites

Yeh put a bullet up the ass of the engineer or the DPI, threaten them with ACCC action. The engineers have a duty to provide that certificate to you, and they havnt...

Hassle, hassle hassle...

Keep making phone calls untill they get their asses into gear...

I used Don for my other 33 & had no problems, he was good! I've got pre-approval for my current 33 & was going to use him again, best bet is just to call him & speak to him again, pretty much just explain your situation & see what the deal is. Not much can be done posting up on here

have you recieved a letter asking you to hand in your plates? cause the date on the yellow will be different to the date of actually having to hand in your plates. when the yellow expires i think you have another 2 weeks or more i think but you cant drive the car unless you are going to the pit. this happen to me when i got the letter it gave a date when they should be handed in etc etc. then i finally got the report a day before i had to hand the plates in. should be ok if you can find another car to drive around in

Only thing i can think of is contact the engineer and see what he has, if he still hasnt done it contact a different engineer and see which can get it done asap.

hey man, yep gave him another ring tonight.. he said it will be done by tonight, i told him i will come and pick it up instead off him posting it so it gets done quicker.

Yeh put a bullet up the ass of the engineer or the DPI, threaten them with ACCC action. The engineers have a duty to provide that certificate to you, and they havnt...

Hassle, hassle hassle...

Keep making phone calls untill they get their asses into gear...

haha i have been, ringing him so much nonstop >_<

I used Don for my other 33 & had no problems, he was good! I've got pre-approval for my current 33 & was going to use him again, best bet is just to call him & speak to him again, pretty much just explain your situation & see what the deal is. Not much can be done posting up on here

Yer thats why i also went Don because a few people from here have said he does a good job, i rang him anyways he said it should be done tonight so ill try get it to the tech section by Friday so i can hopefully have yellow off asap.

have you recieved a letter asking you to hand in your plates? cause the date on the yellow will be different to the date of actually having to hand in your plates. when the yellow expires i think you have another 2 weeks or more i think but you cant drive the car unless you are going to the pit. this happen to me when i got the letter it gave a date when they should be handed in etc etc. then i finally got the report a day before i had to hand the plates in. should be ok if you can find another car to drive around in

hey buddy

um nah i haven’t received any letters yet as i have kept going 1-2 days before my yellow expires and kept getting it renewed, hopefully i will receive the engineering certs soon so i can get this yellow off :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...