Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I was just wondering if anyone could please direct me on how to use the steering wheel controls to shift up/down. When I put it on Tiptronic mode and push the +/- buttons, nothing happens...

Is there a switch somewhere to enable this function?

The image is per below:

2017025AF5A345BEAD04F9D7FFA50DFE.jpg

I apologise in advance if this has been answered somewhere before.

Edited by theponyremark
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310794-tiptronic-controls/
Share on other sites

Haha I didn't know that button was to enable it. Thank's for the fast reply ShanO :D

push the switch that is infront of your ash tray and then put your car in tiptronic mode... job done
  • 1 month later...

Buttons only work when in tiptronic (semi)... when you are in drive (auto), the buttons dont work....

And i think I remember seing somewhere (maybe the book that came with the car) saying you should NOT have the gear change buttons on the steering wheel ON when in drive (auto) because it causes "abrupt" gear changes...

Edited by Serg

I found that driving in semi-automatic mode is much better than auto. On auto, the car goes into 4th gear very fast at low K's. However, nothing will beat a good manual though.

push the switch that is infront of your ash tray and then put your car in tiptronic mode... job done

F*** me. I had played with that button countless amount of times wondering WTF it does, and played with the buttons on the wheel, wanting to use them, figured it was broken, or the button was for something else even though it did 'nothing'.

When I get the car back this is going to be THE first thing I try, lol. :rofl:

What's wrong with the car, Kinkstaah?

Everything is wrong with my car, lol. It's been off the road 7 months now.

[Rant]Not 7 months as in "I cant afford to get it on the road" or "I don't know what to do with it" or "It's an upcoming DIY project" but 7 months of excuses from well-known mechanics, whom I must have given the most absolute shitter job to do.[/Rant]

Should it ever be finished, or should I ever simply give up and buy another car.. I now know what this button does!

$5 says it won't work for me though. :rofl:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...