Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 199
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The thread title says 2-4pm

Is that race time?

When do we need to be there by and do cars have to be checked over before running?

My car will be finished on the dyno at EFI Performance on Wednesday, so hope it all goes well.

The thread title says 2-4pm

Is that race time?

When do we need to be there by and do cars have to be checked over before running?

My car will be finished on the dyno at EFI Performance on Wednesday, so hope it all goes well.

Hey

As todd has not replied as yet ill jump in and help...

2 til 4 is race time, so with this in mind you would want to be lined up at the gates around 1:15pm - 1:30pm as they let you in around 1:45-1:50pm or there abouts...

From the front gate you drive up to the start of the staging area, you will see a couple of people sitting behind a table under a little shed...

You need to stop near them, take your paperwork and helmet to them... They will inspect your helmet and ensure it mets the current Australian standards...

Then you will get your fore arm stamped to show you have signed your forms and they will walk back with you and put a number on you car...

Usually the rear passenger side window (using a white marker, easy to remove the next day)...

After that you drive forward to the front of the staging lanes and wait further instruction...

As for the car/bike, they dont check it over... The helmet is the important one for them, as all our cars/bikes are registered they assume a relative road worthy state is present...

Hope this helps...

From the front gate you drive up to the start of the staging area, you will see a couple of people sitting behind a table under a little shed...

You need to stop near them, take your paperwork and helmet to them... They will inspect your helmet and ensure it mets the current Australian standards...

whats this paperwork you speak of?

Do we get the required paperwork on the day at the front gate when we get there?

Thanks for info

Yeah, just bring a pen...

whats this paperwork you speak of?

You will get it from Todd on the day to fill out while we are waiting at the gates...

Its a simple personal details form and sign at the dotted line...

Just bring a pen, as usually the hold up is people waiting for pens...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...