Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys - I'll mostly cut & paste my carsales ad here rather than retype everything!

Asking price is $23,250ono - contact me via PM to arrange an inspection! I'm in Templestowe, Vic.

I imported this car in August 2008, but as my fiance and I are now building a house I have to sell my dream car. We have commenced construction and are up to frame stage, asking price has been reduced from $26,500 and negotiable for genuine buyers.

This is a genuine 1997 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR Vspec Series 3 with Japanese stamped service history books (timing belt changed at approx 100,000km) & Australian service record.

The Series 3 GTR was the last and best of the R33 GTRs, and included extra features such as standard Xenon headlights, Series 3 design front lip, Series 3 interior (red stitching and detailing), and importantly - dual airbags. I've given the car a thorough overhaul since owning it, with all receipts from day 1, including the wire transfer for the japanese agent, importing paperwork, compliance paperwork, original RWC, car alarm, maintenance items (new windscreen, new CV boots, new tyres etc).

I have kept my car's engine 100% standard, but there are some extra inclusions:

Nismo front & side clear indicators

Nismo carbon Bpillar cover

Nismo air filter (now replaced by brand new Apexi intake filters, standard intake also provided to buyer))

Nismo GT500 shift knob

Tanabe G-Power Medallion 3" catback exhaust (standard exhaust will be fitted to car for RWC, and this exhaust provided to new owner)

Genuine Ganador electric mirrors

JJR B-pillar floor brace

Original GTR floormats

Apexi boost gauge

Optima Red Top sealed battery

Cobra alarm/keyless/boot release

Panasonic CD/MP3 stereo

As a rare example of an almost standard Series 3 R33 GTR, this car would be ideal daily driver in this state (it has been my daily driver since importing it, and has never missed a beat). If you're an enthusiast, this car is an ideal standard base to add your own modifications. I have just had the 145000km service (start of March 2010) done by Barry Bengay Mechanics in Ringwood, all the car needs for RWC is to change back to the stock exhaust (aftermarket exhaust provided to the buyer) and have the engine bay cleaned and she's good to go - no problem!

Asking the best price for any R33 Series 3 GTR on carsales (the rare Xenon headlights alone are worth $3000 if you can find a seller!), negotiable on price. This car has superb paintwork, smooth as silk, a great future classic that you can drive every day.

The asking price includes RWC by Barry Bengay Motors in Ringwood (who did the original RWC for me August 08) and remaining rego. Can reduce price if you don't want RWC or rego, in which case the car will be sold unregistered (without plates).

For more pics click here for the carsales add, or see below.

IMG_7561.jpg

IMG_7571.jpg

IMG_7572.jpg

IMG_7583.jpg

IMG_7585.jpg

IMG_7586.jpg

Edited by slknv
  • 4 weeks later...

Price reduced to $22,500 or best offer. Great price for a clean GTR Series 3 Vspec with records.

Had enough of timewasters from carsales! If you're a serious buyer, contact me.

Also may be interested in a trade+cash for a 4wd wagon (eg wrx, liberty, forester, audi A4 quattro) as my 4WD was written off in the hailstorms, and I can't fit many dogs, bikes or snowboards in my GTR :thumbsup:

Tim

having the same problem selling my white series 3 seems no one has money at the moment..

free bump nice looking gtr :worship:

Guys, just have to wait a bit cos it's just that kind of car, there aren't people all over the place looking for these. I just bought one here in Vic, a series 3 also with high k's.

Just need to be a little flexible with the price I think if you want to move it. But don't give it away of course. People get caught up on high k cars and seriously, all the best GTRs I've seen are high k examples, so it tells me that when they're low, they're not real most of the time. I'm acually more attracted to cars with 100K or over cos thet're more likely genuine.

This puppy still for sale? I am looking for one at the moment and may be willing to come down to Vic to pick it up. Any problems with getting it blue slipped here - everything works???

Thanks

Thomas

This puppy still for sale? I am looking for one at the moment and may be willing to come down to Vic to pick it up. Any problems with getting it blue slipped here - everything works???

Thanks

Thomas

Don't know about other states, but for a RWC in vic all it would need is an engine bay clean and change back to stock exhaust. Just had it serviced start of march at the same mechanics who did my original RWC in August 08 and they did a quick assessment then.

For interstate buyers, the best way is for me to sell the car without numberplates or RWC, you can get an unregistered vehicle permit from Vicroads to drive the car for 30 days, and re-register in your home state, and I can drop the price another $400 if the car is sold without registration.

Have had a few interstate enquiries recently, whoever leaves a deposit first, has first right to buy the car.

Tim

Edited by slknv

Yep, sold to pete, no more enquiries thanks :cool: Hope you had a good drive back to Adelaide!

Was actually quite sad to see it being driven away yesterday, I don't think you can get a better car for the price - I'm going to buy another one, once this thing below is paid off! (the house, not the van in the driveway!)

IMG_8045.JPG

Edited by slknv

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...