Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about importing a V35 skyline, 4 door as it needs to be practical for the family.

I can't decide on the 2.5L, 3.0L or 3.5L although I am saying toward the 3.5L (same motor as 350Z).

I think that both the 2.5L and 3.0L are direct injection and not shared by a locally delivered Nissan?

My main concern is availability of maintenance parts locally, by that I mean what I can get at my local autoshop (Repco, Autobarn, Bursons etc), i.e aftermarket parts. I know Nissan can get anything.

What is the aftermarket availability of parts for these cars for things like brake rotors, pads, oxygen sensors, oil/air/fuel filters etc?

Also I hear not so good things about the CVT 8 speed. Should I stick to the conventional 5 speed auto?

I have already read about the electrical probs these cars can have like motor actuators, sound systems etc, so can live with that if a problem...

Ideally I'm looking at a 2004+ 4 door 350GT, premium with half leather. Budget is about $20K on road.

Any comments/advice from those who have been down this path?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311671-v35-skyline-which-model/
Share on other sites

Hi,

I just bought my 2005 V35 250GT lastweek and i'm happy for what i get.

Its does not have leather, Bose sound system and electric seats.

So its have less things to go wrong.

If you after a 350GT sedan, go for the S2 V35.

Also i have the I-key and still getting use to it.

The factory navi screen can still go wrong, as well as the i-key... you're not bullet proof, Son Gokou...

power window and door lock are also candidate to go wrong in these cars... Welcome to Nissan world

all thank's to the good ol Nissan engineering... 10-15 years since the R32/R33 era and they still can't make a reliable power window motor.

happens in local Maxima, 350Z too so it's not a problem anyone can't fix locally - so it's not the end of the world when (not if) that happens.

yep - if you want a bit more power and not too concern on achieving 7-8ltr / 100km in traffic jams, go for 350gt.

some 250gt can return very good fuel economy, and even though they made less power they're not too bad compared to other cars within the same engine size range...

Ive had my 4dr 2004 350gt sedan for a little over 18months now and can def recommend them. Parts are pretty easy. No probs at all with filters pads rotors have replaced all these. Drive belts were a little more difficult becos needed gates racing belts not std ones but even then when I finally bit the bullet and ordered from USA no probs at all. Becos same motor trans as 350z these parts are easy. Body panels etc may be more difficult but that would be same issue whether considering 300gt or 250gt as well.

Check out insurance as they can be pricey for some younger drivers. I'm lucky being older have same cost as a commodore.

I think if after an auto I would prefer the 5spd as cvt is very expensive to service or repair.

Also, probably wont worry you but autos dont get the lim slip diff that the manuals get if you ever consider motor sport / performance driving.

No doubt fuel economy would be improved on the 250gt and 350gt and you really are best advised to run premium unleaded (98 ron) in these motors. Well the 350 gt at least.

yep - if you want a bit more power and not too concern on achieving 7-8ltr / 100km in traffic jams, go for 350gt.

some 250gt can return very good fuel economy, and even though they made less power they're not too bad compared to other cars within the same engine size range...

7-8 l/100 kms is very good for a 3.5L, city cycle.

I thought it was more like 9-10 l/100 kms highway and 10-12 l/100 kms in city traffic?

What can be expected from the 2.5L and 3.0L; highway and city cycles?

Ive had my 4dr 2004 350gt sedan for a little over 18months now and can def recommend them. Parts are pretty easy. No probs at all with filters pads rotors have replaced all these. Drive belts were a little more difficult becos needed gates racing belts not std ones but even then when I finally bit the bullet and ordered from USA no probs at all. Becos same motor trans as 350z these parts are easy. Body panels etc may be more difficult but that would be same issue whether considering 300gt or 250gt as well.

Check out insurance as they can be pricey for some younger drivers. I'm lucky being older have same cost as a commodore.

I think if after an auto I would prefer the 5spd as cvt is very expensive to service or repair.

Also, probably wont worry you but autos dont get the lim slip diff that the manuals get if you ever consider motor sport / performance driving.

No doubt fuel economy would be improved on the 250gt and 350gt and you really are best advised to run premium unleaded (98 ron) in these motors. Well the 350 gt at least.

Insurance doesn't worry me as I am approaching middle age, R1+ for life.

Why did u need the Gates belts? Just preference over factory Nissan?

Not going anywhere near a track, so dont need LSD.

Can you safely run 95 RON or 92 RON in the 3.5L? Does the ECU control the ignition?/fuel? maps with knock sensor/s for crappy fuel like some other cars?

The factory navi screen can still go wrong, as well as the i-key... you're not bullet proof, Son Gokou...

power window and door lock are also candidate to go wrong in these cars... Welcome to Nissan world

all thank's to the good ol Nissan engineering... 10-15 years since the R32/R33 era and they still can't make a reliable power window motor.

happens in local Maxima, 350Z too so it's not a problem anyone can't fix locally - so it's not the end of the world when (not if) that happens.

Never had a problem with the door locks or electric window motors in my S2 Stagea. Did Nissan change the design after C34/M34/R34?

7-8 l/100 kms is very good for a 3.5L, city cycle.

I thought it was more like 9-10 l/100 kms highway and 10-12 l/100 kms in city traffic?

What can be expected from the 2.5L and 3.0L; highway and city cycles?

I never said 7-8 l/100kms city for 3.5L

average is 12-15 l/100kms city for 3.5L from what I've seen across various 350GT so far

8-10 is achieveable freeways

7-8 l/100kms I think can be achieved by the 2.5L (two and a half litres) engine (the 250GT)

With my 250GT, i got 8.8km/l city drive!

As i drive on Punt rd every morning and stuck in the traffics for around 45mins.

I only have the car for two weeks now and i took a week off work.

So i havent fill up the car and i do 500km a week just travel to work.

  • 1 month later...

apologies for semi hijacking a thread

but is the 300gt 5 speed auto easily serviced by a nissan dealer ? i know the 350gt is essentially the same motor as a local 350z and can be serviced by those guys.

Is the 300gt reliable and economical enough for a daily driver ( replace the missus commodore , finally )

As much as i would prefer the xtra power etc on the 350gt , there are 300gt's for under 20k now which there a plenty of good examples to choose from

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...