Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey pplz,

have a feelin i got a bad starter motor, on odd occasions the car just makes a clicking noise wen trying to crank over. i get all reds, volts measure good. battery is new. the noise is very similar to wen u try starting on a dead battery and hear sm go click click. so far i jus turn off and try again and it will tip start fine.

gone through search, at 1st thought bad alternator but charge is good and volts not dropping on load. swapped battery with other car and eliminated that. checked relay ok. so now im thinking its the starter motor.

i,ve heard vl, r32, r33, r34 starter motors are same....can someone confirm this,

any other ideas and thoughts wud be great !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311752-r34-starter-motor/
Share on other sites

There might be something causing a voltage drop through the loom to hold the solenoid closed. Try setting up a relay to provide battery power to the starter solenoid. I found that that eliminated a similar problem in my 32.

  • 5 months later...

question ppl, battery is around 12.5 when car is off, 13.5 after it is started, my problem is after driving the car for 30 mins and turning it off, i cant get it to start, just clicks once (not the same click click click when you have dead battery)

im thinking its my starter motor solenoid, can anyone confirm before i get another starter motor

btw, op, rb starter motors are interchangable

Is is a *click* or a fair old clunk?

When you turn the key, power is bridged to your starter relay, which in turn sends power to the starter solenoid, which throws out the starter gear to engage the flywheel and powers up the starter in at the same time, any faults in these components can cause this.

So long as you're sure your battery is ok:

(More directed at BWRGTR as you drive the car before the fault occurs)

1. Check your earths, if possible run a jumper lead from somewhere solid on your engine (ie. lift point) to the negative/earth side of your battery, see if the car still plays up after 10 or so starts, you can do the same with the battery positive directly to the solenoid wire to eliminate the battery feed wire, BUT DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW!

2. Could be a relay problem, with the car in neutral/park, key off, disconnect the solenoid wire and bridge battery power to the solenoid wire (the little terminal on the starter, if you're not certain get someone who does) and make sure the starter functions as above, this eliminates the relay/key etc.

3. If all the above works but the starter still just goes *cLuNk* when trying the above, most likely your starter is dead and you need a new one.

If you are unsure about any of this just DON'T DO IT! As you'll be playing with 300+ccas which will melt and destroy s*** if you stuff up.

Otherwise, hope it helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...