Jump to content
SAU Community

Clock And Odo Resets At Every Start

Jai_R34GT

By Jai_R34GT,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
Posted

hey guys

i'm searched many forums but couldnt find a solution to my problem..lemme start with the whole story..I drive an R34 GTT..

my boost guage metre's supply and ground wire went loose and touched each other and caused a spark which lead to my dash board light and tail light fuse gone. since it happened on a night and i didnt wanna be driving without taillights i replaced the spoilt fuse with my horn fuse..since then my battery started overcharging to more than 15v..noticed it 2 days later..after checkin the forums found out that if u remove the horn fuse for some reason the alternator wil overcharge the battery..so i got a new fuse for the horn and the overcharging stopped..alternator chargin the battery at 14 something now..

but since then my clock always reset to 1am and trip meter resets to 0 everytime i start the car..

central locking doesnt work anymore, cabin lights and ignition key lights doesnt come on when i open the car,

warning lbeep when i leave the lights on or the keys on ignition doesnt work anymore,

the lights of my boost meter doesnt work anymore but boost is readin correctly

and lastly my front defogger keep blinking for 15 seconds and makes some wierd noices until it goes off...

i've checked all fuses from the engine bay and the drivers side...is there another fuse box hidden anywhere/??? what do u think may have caused all this problems/?? do u guys think wires from the battery got melted coz of the overcharging?? or the alternator or battery itself has to checked or replaced or whatever??? car starts normally so battery seems alright..pls guys any help would be appreciated..

cheers

Jai

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/311791-clock-and-odo-resets-at-every-start/
Share on other sites
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Try disconnecting the battery, turn the ignition on and use your brake or headlights, then reconnect the battery and see what happens??

Sounds like you should have an error code, but a battery reset will likely work OK.

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Try disconnecting the battery, turn the ignition on and use your brake or headlights, then reconnect the battery and see what happens??

Sounds like you should have an error code, but a battery reset will likely work OK.

done exactly as u said..still got trouble..any other suggestions..? about the error codes do i have to take it to a mechanic for diagnostics???

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Probably best to take it to a nissan mechanic, one of the Skyline ones preferably, but others on SAU may be able to help if you want to wait?

does anyone of mechanics in south east melbourne specialised in skylines????

iseekool Veteran

iseekool

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure if this will work....

Ensure all the fuses are at the correct ratings... you may have to check each fuse one at a time.

Not sure if Nissan's use a "body control module" (like the Holden Commodore's), which control door locks etc... - It could possibly be fried from the over charging....

There could be another short in the system somewhere - Probably best bring it to an auto elec first rather than a mech, as this issue seems electrical.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

So, the clock resets to 1 when you switch the engine off (key at ACC)? Or the clock / trip resets after you start the engine?

I would suggest that the clock and trip meter have lost the battery backup power - perhaps an in-line fuse has blown.

Jai_R34GT Contributor

Jai_R34GT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey checked all fuses earlier..its all at the correct ratings...btw what's the body control module? and hey my clock/ trip resets after i start the engine and not when i switch off the engine with the key at ACC... even i reckon that the battery backup power has been lost...but where is it if its just a fuse???

  • 10 months later...
  • 9 months later...
iwanta34gtr Grand Master

iwanta34gtr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi every1,

I had this issue today. Thought i'd post the fix as a reference as this thread is the first thing that came up in google when i searched.

Issue can be fixed by changing the 10A bat fuse in the drivers side interior fuse box. If u have this issue chances are its either blown or maybe even missing (as it was in my case).

Diagram of the fuse box (with english translation sticker beside it) is attached.

Hopefully this will help some1 one day.

Thanx.

post-86021-0-89530900-1320748987_thumb.jpg

Edited by iwanta34gtr
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 89GTR_VA
      Crank/No Start - R32 GTR Chassis with R34 RB26

      By 89GTR_VA · Posted

      Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • GTSBoy
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • PranK
      The New Official S A U - N S W Spotted Thread

      By PranK · Posted

      Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...