Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys (and gals)

Just got my hands on a nice R32 GTS-T. Completely as stock etc etc. Am lovin it so far but just have a quick question about fuel.

I have had a look at other topics about it but everyones askin about R33's.

Im not stupid so i gather BPUltimate/98octane fuel is the way to go (i am currently running this anyway)

However... How would using only 95 octane (standard premium, not ultimate) affect my engine. I dont plan on it anytime soon but just curious in case I'm strapped for cash at some point or something. And im not going near basic 91 unleaded. But yeah.

Feel free to driect me to another topic on the same thing (my search skills are somewhat limited as yet :blush: .

Thnx in advance

BG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312227-easy-question/
Share on other sites

i just saw in the initial post where he said it was stock as a rock, so yeah, 95 should be fine without retarding the timing. i think the standard premium in japan is 96 ron. their standard unleaded is about 90 and their super premium is 100.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312227-easy-question/#findComment-5137602
Share on other sites

if you must run it on 95 octane fuel, retard the timing a bit. you will have less power, but it will make it safer on your engine

Just hijacking a bit...if the car's tuned for 98, but it's available, would 95 combined with a very light right foot work for the time being? Or is the engine going to start detonating regardless?

Tah.icon1.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312227-easy-question/#findComment-5137883
Share on other sites

So basically I'm cool to run 95 even with a lead foot until I start with the mods?

Also as it is 'stock as a rock' would running 98 for the time being really give me that much difference. I know it cleans the injectors, engine etc and runs nicer... but doesnt normal premium do that to a degree as well?

Cheers

BG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312227-easy-question/#findComment-5139781
Share on other sites

Just hijacking a bit...if the car's tuned for 98, but it's available, would 95 combined with a very light right foot work for the time being? Or is the engine going to start detonating regardless?

Tah.icon1.gif

Yes. My car is tuned on 98 too.

I was stuck in gympie, didnt have enough fuel to get to the bp, so had to use the matilda=95ron or 91 ron can't remember.

I just had to cruise home on the motorway, nothing went boom, as long as you don't putting crazy amounts of load on the engine you will be fine. My DET didnt go over 15 :down:

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312227-easy-question/#findComment-5140858
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...