Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, please take it easy on this one, I'm new to all this :blush:

I've had a pretty long look through the forums and there seemed to be a lot of dispute when it comes to spark plugs. I've got a stock r34 gtt with cat-back exhaust, what should I be using? I'm not sure what's in there not cos i haven't looked since i bought it (only just read how to), so I'll be having a look this week. There is a miss-fire at idle tho.

So what's the deal? Copper, platinum or iridium? They last different amount of time, right? I'm trying to learn as much as i can at the moment so i don't mind changing the plugs every 5000km with oil (also changing that this week cos, its been almost 7000km and starting to hear a bit of ticking, hoping the change will fix it).

I understand is like this: a certain voltage is sent through the plug, which causes the spark, so smaller gap means the spark happens earlier in the piston cycle (as well as being more consistent as less spark is required). Copper requires less voltage to cause the spark (ie more consistent between cycles?), but due to the properties of copper some of the spark plug is lost during each spark. Platinum and iridium are much harder and thus so they don't erode as quickly. The erosion affects when in the cycle the spark fires because it changes the plug gap.

So, please correct me if this is wrong!! And what do i buy? lol

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312824-another-spark-plug-question/
Share on other sites

if ur happy to changing the sparkplugs with oil change then copper plugs are the way to go.

iridium is over kill

and i have found that platinum dont always last 100,000km. i have had some go at 10,000km so im not happy with them but other ppl have reported success.

if u get misfiring at the top end then its because the gap is 2 big or the coils are arcing out. to fix = new coils, close down the gap, silicon the coil mounting bracket.

i have not had misfiring at idle so im not to shore maybe change the oil, sparkplugs and see how that goes.

i personally dont gap my sparkplugs i should to make shore there the same but so far i haven't had any problems other then platinum sparkplugs that shit themselves after 10,000km and some arcing

the part number 4 my copper plugs BKR5E-11

follow this link to understand the part number http://www.ngkspark.com.au/sparkplug.php#

thanks mate. when i posted this i'd only searched the gen maintenance forums, but there's a massive amount of confusing info in the faq sticky in the forced induction performance forums.

hoping it sounds happier after this weeks service, it'll be good to not fear the old oil hurting the engine

don't run the BKR5 plugs on a turbo car. they are too hot and may cause the car to ping, which leads to other bad things. BCPR6ES or BKR6E are the plugs to run. the BCPR6ES plugs are actually a slightly taller plug so will make contact with the coil a bit better, but either will do. those plugs are gapped at 0.8mm, for the ones with the 1.1mm gap (which is stock but may result in a missfire with weak coils) then add -11 to the part number.

as for how often to change them, i pulled my BCPR6ES plugs out after 5000kms and they still looked fine, and were still performing fine even on 14psi, so i could've got another 5000kms out of them easily. the plugs i pulled out before putting the copper plugs in were iridiums that were only 20,000kms and were stuffed, so at 5 or 6 times the price they certainly weren't worth the extra money.

don't run the BKR5 plugs on a turbo car. they are too hot and may cause the car to ping, which leads to other bad things. BCPR6ES or BKR6E are the plugs to run. the BCPR6ES plugs are actually a slightly taller plug so will make contact with the coil a bit better, but either will do. those plugs are gapped at 0.8mm, for the ones with the 1.1mm gap (which is stock but may result in a missfire with weak coils) then add -11 to the part number.

as for how often to change them, i pulled my BCPR6ES plugs out after 5000kms and they still looked fine, and were still performing fine even on 14psi, so i could've got another 5000kms out of them easily. the plugs i pulled out before putting the copper plugs in were iridiums that were only 20,000kms and were stuffed, so at 5 or 6 times the price they certainly weren't worth the extra money.

This

For a stockish datsun ;) just chuck in some bcpr6es plugs, clean them, but replace them every 2nd or so service.

At stock boost, I wouldn't be able to justify going iridiums

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, new members can't post pics until they reach a certain post count. If I get a chance I'll promote you to full member, if @Prank or someone else doesn't get there first.
    • Drilled the rubber out on a slow speed and it didn't catch much at all. Probably only half a dozen holes was enough to shred the rubber and it dropped off easily leaving the inner sleeve behind. Will tackle that later
    • I havent bought a manual cover for the dash yet and no cluster change, won't bother me too much, I just need to get that auto box gone, manual in! I miss my manual. 🤪. We started last weekend and managed to get the box out. Planning to start putting it in this weekend and then order a single piece tail. We were super careful to take time and not damage anything. It's my first time working under the car.  With my S15 mainly worked in the bay. This time, it was a headache because of three or four bolts only. They simply didnt want to leave thei homr and the one securing the tailshaft, another above the GB, and the one securing the lipstick was a shit. Mates mate, Davo caught fire 🤣, nearly opened his chest up with a grinder 🤦🏽‍♂️ and both mates nearly had a plate from the box land and slit their head open. Fun times. We all survived. Not the easiest working with limited access on jackstands. As I'm sure we can agree these are the memories which make us love our car. For all three of us, was an awesome weekend and Sunday 3.30am before tools down was a fantastic effort. I need to upload pics, but looks like it needs to be via Url now. We used to be able to just upload pics back in the day. It's been that long! 🤪 Im currently spraying rustoleum under body, not because it's rusted. It's super clean, but just so it's protected for the next 10 years. There was a few surface rust spots. Which pretty much wiped off with a 3M scourer.  Really impressed with how well the previous owner maintained it. Bank account went down so quick! Service, then GB - managed to get a spanking new 34 genuine box from Nissan. All the rest of the conversion parts from Kudos.  Went with a Nismo short shifter. New pedals and Exedy Clutch and FW. Ordered the Prp Rear Main Retainer kit which should arrive Friday and my first engine mod part just like I did with my S15 will be the Tomei Expreme Turbo Outlet. Already on order. It'll likely sleep next to me on a pillow during the coming months. 🥰 Last build was on my JET200GT profile and on SAU and Hardtuned I had documented the build. Planning to try to do that again. Brands feel scarce now. Wish we still had ARC and Apexi parts readily available. Exhaust - need some advice on this. I had an Apexi exhaust on the S15 and loved the tone. My mate had a HKS HP Silent on his 33 and suggested I go with that to avoid drone. I can't remember hearing an RB25DET running that so will likely need to wait for a meet or something to hear it.  Not after big power, just enjoy building it, and drivability with minimal negative attention.
    • Have a chat with Ben at Moore Performance or Jesse at JS Performance.
    • Thanks both. All good advice. Reminds me of drilling through stone wall for drainage pipe 😬 I'll let you know how I get on if I still have use of my hands afterwards 😅
×
×
  • Create New...