Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This was another great event this weekend. It was also my Group A DR30's debut after sitting in Terry Ashwoods Restauraunt for the last few years in retirement. She came out kicking and screaming, but did exceptionally well on the weekend, and she looked great.

We ended up on Sunday with a 1st in class.

We qualified 14th out of 32 cars.

1st Race - FInished 10th

2nd Race - Finished 6th

3rd Race - Finished 4th

4th Race - Finished 6th

Car came home without a scracth, and some slight mechanical issues to do with a miss and we need to find the reason we can not get the right boost.

pismall2.jpg

pismall1.jpg

pismall.jpg

PISMALL8.jpg

PISMALL7.jpg

PISMALL6.jpg

PISMALL5.jpg

dr30-1.jpg

I need some R200 Diff ratios if anyone knows where I can get some.

GREAT to see more cars getting out there. Any news on the Sierras making a comeback this year?

yeh there was 3 entered.....the Listerine car and Robert Ingram's 2 ANZ cars.....the later ANZ car came up with a small problem though so only one of them ran the weekend.

yeh a messy one from me in the DR30....you will have to excuse the no throttle through turns 3 and 6 and misfire down the straight......something was causing the ignition to stop and go......on top of that we only had 4:11's and 1.1bar of boost......she's a bit different to the R31 :)

We will have it right for Lakeside though!

My shoulders a killing me!!!!

Edited by Jetwreck

I should have another run up on youtube late tonight. I will do the last race of the weekend next.

The Saturday footage is not as good due to camera mounting issues, too high in the car in the first race on Saturday (Great view of the mirror and your eyes but not much else) and the vibration was playing hob with the mount in race 2. On a one inch long alloy strip mount the vibration was making the camera head twist at one RPM and shake side to side at another. Gaffer tape fixes everything! I will figure out a better mount for it before it goes in the car again.

Edited by Blue

So if this is Terry Ashwoods DR30, does anyone know what has happened to the DR30 of John Strongman? I understand he sold it to help fund the purcahse of the GIO GTR. It was not 100% original and had some late model bits on it that woudl have needed to be removed...but it was a tidy and running car.

How different is the FJ compared to the RB20 in the power stakes?

Gaven Strongman still has his DR30 and is probably going to bring it back to its original condition and start racing it.

Terry Ashwood's old DR30 now belongs to Caz (that was the car racing on the weekend)

Fred Uthmann still has his DR30

Robert Ingram has the Netcom one

Next video, this is race 4 on Sunday afternoon. I had to ditch the last lap to get it under the ten minute mark for youtube. Still processing when I posted this so the video quality should get a little better.

:) at the GIO car!!!

Bit of a moment there yes! Not as hairy as the VL Walkie going off in the first corner from the other vid. It really shows that it needed a taller diff for the island given you got it into fifth gear into the first corner from a standing start.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...