Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know how well the vacume ones work on turbo cars where the power delivery isn't liner ??

My last car had cruise, and it killed me going to a car without it :)

Stimps - does the one you've got work on the tacho signal as well ?? I've never installed one that runs on the magnets etc....

The one i have works off the magnets on the tailshaft system, which is if anything, more accurate.

Being a turbo car or not makes no difference.

If you have a turbo auto, its even better, as when you come to a steep hill, it will simply apply more throttle, turbo spools up, auto kicks down a gear....etc..

I havent played with any of them that work off a tacho signal, but I would think that any that does, would be pretty dodgy, as the behaviour of it would change depending on which gear your in.

Cool,

Yeah, the one I had in my last car was done via the tacho and used to get confused on steep hills etc. But it was pretty old (bought it about 12 years ago).

Might put one on my wish list.

BTW: I like what you did with the uhf transmitter. Good idea to keep the dash nice and neat.

J

The one i have works off the magnets on the tailshaft system, which is if anything, more accurate.  

Being a turbo car or not makes no difference.

If you have a turbo auto, its even better, as when you come to a steep hill, it will simply apply more throttle, turbo spools up, auto kicks down a gear....etc..

I havent played with any of them that work off a tacho signal, but I would think that any that does, would be pretty dodgy, as the behaviour of it would change depending on which gear  your in.

mine was $750 fitted - so if you did it yourself it should be cheaper, I just needed it very quickly and didn?t have the time.

On the vacuum ones, I'd been warned off them for the turbo skyline, but I don?t know if it is a correct warning or not?

And most of the decent cruise controls should just work of the SPEED wire, not the tacho one, so it is irrelevant which gear you are in..

there is nothing wrong with the vacumn ones on a turbo car.

All turbo cars should have a hose taking vacumn off the manifold, thru a one way valve, to a vacumn resivior somewhere on the car (in the VL's its on the right hand side hidden behind the bumper.)

Even when your on boost, there is plenty of vacumn on hand to deliver power to the actuator to pull the throttle cable.

If it doesnt work, something is wrong, ive seen people have problems and blame the cruise control when I've had a look and found that the one way valve is missing or installed the wrong way around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...