Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These things seem to be majorly expensive for some bent sheet metal and hinges. I was wondering if there are cheaper options to prevent oil starvation or if we are destined to pay the $500 to $1000+ asking prices.

I remember awhile back someone linked to some American gadget which was a big pressurised cylinder, and when it detected pressure drop in the sump, it injected more oil into the line until pressure was restored. I think these were still fairly expensive though (US$200?)

What about the option of building your own? If someone had a set of plans for a sump baffle, I am guessing it wouldn't cost more than $100 in materials to build (unless I'm way off). Has anyone built their own, and if so would they be willing to share the plans?

Lastly, maybe there are some metal workshops that can build and sell them for a reasonable price. If they didn't *only* make sump baffles, then surely they wouldn't care about the limited customer base of these things and the fact that they are a one-off purchase. I imagine that most of the places that specialise in sump baffles realise that once you buy one, that car will never need another one again and so jack up the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/
Share on other sites

That seems to be the way it goes with car parts though. People are all too willing to pay the asking price because they don't know any better.

Have you looked at some yahoo Japan auctions for these? I'm sure you could find someone who could help you get some from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-632313
Share on other sites

Going from memory, I believe the UAS baffles are a copy of the JUN baffles knocked up by Micks Metalcraft, this may have changed as its been over a year since I was last looking for some.

The tomei baffles are reasonably priced and might be a good option.

The majority of the cost will be installation, as unless you want to stuff around removing the cross member you will need to pull the motor to drop the sump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-635913
Share on other sites

I’m sure a metal craft place could make some up with some sort of plans, as for the cost of installation...I have pulled out my sump completely without pulling the engine out or removing the cross member, although it doesn't have the baffle so I don’t know how that would affect it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-636049
Share on other sites

You will find that most engineering/welding fabrication shops charge about $55-75/hour, so soon gets expensive when you consider the labour required, not so much the material cost.

Instead of a baffled sump, would a larger oil pan be enough, if there is even a need for one on the first place? Will still cost some money, but would no doubt work out cheaper... actually just dry sump it and say goodbye to your sub and audio gear in the boot ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31319-sump-baffles/#findComment-636085
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...