Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Problem On R33 Gtst

Slapstik

By Slapstik,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Slapstik Explorer

Slapstik

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Got a problem which has reared it's head in the last week. Car idles extremely rough, sorta like a high RPM missfire. hard to explain, but sorta sounds like a WRX (constant pop) and the whole car shakes badly. Car got tuned around 6 months ago.

has Power FC, Z32, 850cc sard's, Splitfire coilpacks, HKS twin spark, upgraded turbo and external gate and Walbro Fuel pump with re-wired relay.

Swapped out the coilpacks with a brand new set as a precaution, regapped plugs to .7 to rid it of any chance of missfire. Changed fuel pump relay, changed Coil pack loom and swapped Ignitor pack.

Checked the Z32 wiring tonight and noticed that going by PaulR33's wiring picture that when the AFM was installed, the signal ground and 12v ground were mixed up. swapped them and the same problem remains. What are the odds of this mix up causing an AFM failure or PFC failure?

Only thing i haven't done is swap the fuel pump over, sounds a little funny when it's priming, but was looked at by a mechanic and he said it was working. another possibility??

Any help is much appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313195-idle-problem-on-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites
mitchum Contributor

mitchum

Posted
Posted
Hi Guys,

Got a problem which has reared it's head in the last week. Car idles extremely rough, sorta like a high RPM missfire. hard to explain, but sorta sounds like a WRX (constant pop) and the whole car shakes badly. Car got tuned around 6 months ago.

has Power FC, Z32, 850cc sard's, Splitfire coilpacks, HKS twin spark, upgraded turbo and external gate and Walbro Fuel pump with re-wired relay.

Swapped out the coilpacks with a brand new set as a precaution, regapped plugs to .7 to rid it of any chance of missfire. Changed fuel pump relay, changed Coil pack loom and swapped Ignitor pack.

Checked the Z32 wiring tonight and noticed that going by PaulR33's wiring picture that when the AFM was installed, the signal ground and 12v ground were mixed up. swapped them and the same problem remains. What are the odds of this mix up causing an AFM failure or PFC failure?

Only thing i haven't done is swap the fuel pump over, sounds a little funny when it's priming, but was looked at by a mechanic and he said it was working. another possibility??

Any help is much appreciated.

Cheers

start with a compression test...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • Duncan
      Engine sputter

      By Duncan · Posted

      My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Duncan
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By Duncan · Posted

      Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • GTSBoy
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...