Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my s1 stag's 4wd warning light is coming on of late, never seen it before. Car is still drivable, usually pulling over and switching her off and on solves it.

I recently put new tie rod ends in, replaced 2 tyres and got a wheel alignment. The 2 tyres I replaced are a different brand, but still the same size.

I did a search and saw some old threads suggesting wheel sizes could be the cause, but would any of the above works possibly have caused it?

If so what should I do? Is it something I should be trying to fix, or will it sort itself out?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/
Share on other sites

The obvious one is to check the level in the reservoir in the side of the boot. If you're real keen bleed the system (nipple at back of transfer box and another on top of diff) - just crack them open with the motor running. Try resetting the ecu (disonnect the battery and reconnect). Your different brand tyres may have the same nominal size but jack them up and measure the circumference and see if they are in fact the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5147523
Share on other sites

since you just changed tie rod ends, my guess is the steering is not centred properly.

if hicas thinks you are turning when you are actually going straight it throws an error.

when they did they wheel alignment did they adjust the steering wheel, or is it out of centre when pointing straight ahead?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5148024
Share on other sites

series one doesnt have hicas .

run a diagnostic on it . it will tell you exactly what it wants . it could be anything from low fluid to wheel sizes to any one of the sensrs dirty /failed . even tps signal . it your steering wheel centerd , ? attesa has a steering wheel sensor .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5148056
Share on other sites

when my 4wd light came on the car was undrivable, but do check for codes, the attessa ecu is a pitta to get to but makes it all worthwile in the end,

my problem was the TPS, i swapped the whole throttle body over from another motor i had and its all good,

let us know how you go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5151927
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...