Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well my s1 stag's 4wd warning light is coming on of late, never seen it before. Car is still drivable, usually pulling over and switching her off and on solves it.

I recently put new tie rod ends in, replaced 2 tyres and got a wheel alignment. The 2 tyres I replaced are a different brand, but still the same size.

I did a search and saw some old threads suggesting wheel sizes could be the cause, but would any of the above works possibly have caused it?

If so what should I do? Is it something I should be trying to fix, or will it sort itself out?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/
Share on other sites

The obvious one is to check the level in the reservoir in the side of the boot. If you're real keen bleed the system (nipple at back of transfer box and another on top of diff) - just crack them open with the motor running. Try resetting the ecu (disonnect the battery and reconnect). Your different brand tyres may have the same nominal size but jack them up and measure the circumference and see if they are in fact the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5147523
Share on other sites

since you just changed tie rod ends, my guess is the steering is not centred properly.

if hicas thinks you are turning when you are actually going straight it throws an error.

when they did they wheel alignment did they adjust the steering wheel, or is it out of centre when pointing straight ahead?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5148024
Share on other sites

series one doesnt have hicas .

run a diagnostic on it . it will tell you exactly what it wants . it could be anything from low fluid to wheel sizes to any one of the sensrs dirty /failed . even tps signal . it your steering wheel centerd , ? attesa has a steering wheel sensor .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5148056
Share on other sites

when my 4wd light came on the car was undrivable, but do check for codes, the attessa ecu is a pitta to get to but makes it all worthwile in the end,

my problem was the TPS, i swapped the whole throttle body over from another motor i had and its all good,

let us know how you go

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313293-4wd-light/#findComment-5151927
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...