Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone fitted a FMIC kit before ?? I know Nick (By By) has, but he cheated and used UAS's hoist.

Can such a thing be done at home in a normal garage - Anyone got instructions or know where to get ?

I know you have to cut the front bat - Are the cuts visble from the front ?? What's the potential for a FUBAR ?

Is there an analogy someone can give me like:

* If you can port & polish a head, & hi flow a turbo you can fit a FMIC

or

* If you can change a clutch you can fit a FMIC

or

* If you can do an oil change you can fit a FMIC

or

* IF you have never fitted a FMIC before, don't attemt with out professional help.

In other words, how handy do you have to be ??

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3134-fitting-a-fmic-yourself/
Share on other sites

shouldnt be too hard if the kit is well made, I make pipes on cars here and that can get a bit trickey.

All you should have to do is take off the old cooler, cut a 3'' hole under the washer bottle, and everything should bolt up. But the trimming can be a bit trickey and yes it is easy to make a mistake when doing it, but if it is done streight it shouldnt be noticable.

Somewhere between changing the clutch and doing oil change.

I've got a 400R front bar and even with that it was a tight fit. I'd say you'll be cutting yours if it is the stock series 1 one. It did end up fitting though, but I am thinking of cutting a bit off the back so I can put some mesh in front of it. The stones are killing the fins.

Hmmmm 400R Front bar hey ? Sorry, I have no idea what that is.

Mine is a 95 R33 with an M-Spec kit on it - I know the front bar is different to standard, but it is also different to yours.

Anyone know if I'll need to hack the front bar ? If so how much and is it fairly stright forward ??

Thanks

Thanks ex-static, it felt like it made a huge difference. Even at stock boost. The weird thing was that I was told it would make my turbo come on boost slower because of all the extra piping, but it did the exact opposite somehow. Maybe it is because the old piping was restrictive or something?

It cost me $2000 from Unique Autosports. I felt it was better to spend the extra $300 or $400 to get an HKS kit. I'm sure you can get a kit equally as good elsewhere for far less. After all, UAS are not known for their cheap prices.

Some wise guy deleted my post

Brendan, as Mick said its an easy job for a non technical minded person. Just takes time fitting it up and trimming the nessesary parts. Having some good tools on hand will help....and a couple of mates.....

Anyway saves u the cost of having someone else do it which is good! :uh-huh:

MIC33R's gallery is very helpful for anyone looking to do this urself

Thanks Nick,

Is it only inside of the bar/spolier that you need to trim ?? That is: the side that faces the radiator ? I'm comfortable trimming the bar from this perspective, But if you have to do any external trimming that requires re-paiting or whatever, I'm not up for that.

I think I'll just buy a cooler kit and attempt the install, and if it all goes to 5hit, put it back together and get someone else to fit later.

The UAS kit sounds good. (Pity john & oli are always too busy to sell me one. he he)

Nick, can you feel more power with your new Zorst ??

Cheers,

Originally posted by brendanf

Thanks Nick,

The UAS kit sounds good. (Pity john & oli are always too busy to sell me one. he he)

Nick, can you feel more power with your new Zorst ??

Brendan, thats why i get the intercooler kit for you :uh-huh: yeah its only the inside of the bar needing trimming... nothing to serious

hey,

two weeks ago couple of mates and myself installed a cooler on my R33 GTSt Spec2

this is a kit thats made up here in australia thats basically the same as the HKS piping, with an imported cooler core from the US (600mm x 300mm x 76mm)

anyway the kit fitted perfectly and was pretty straight forward...i started at 4pm, mates came at 6pm and we finished it off at 1am

there was a period of piss farting around...as it always does when mates come around :D

we did heaps of cutting on the front bar with a jigsaw, nothing too special, we just sized it up and cut. Trial and error style...and ofcourse the hole that had to be cut underneath the waterbottle (baah 10mins) for the return pipe

also we had to angle grin some of the metal front bar support thing inbetween the headlights (on the inside).

not much grinding, its just that this sucker was huge and i wanted it to fit perfectly

now we arent professionals, but good with hands and the tools we had, the good thing though which always helps is that we had all the tools needed for the job

it DOES make life easy

here are a couple of pics...

http://mccr.madcars.org/dynodaypics/dragon...es/DSC00376.JPG

http://mccr.madcars.org/dynodaypics/dragon...'s%20cooler.JPG

http://mccr.madcars.org/dynodaypics/cyrus/...es/DSCF0866.jpg

Whistla - NICE ONE man !

Where did you get ur cooler from ?? And how much did it cost (if u don't mind me asking ?)

I've decided to go for it myself - Now just gotta pick the cooler and get the funds.

Cheers,

brendan..

here is the ad that a mate of mine gave me which he found on the silvia.com forum...

I have some brand new intercoolers and cores for sale, two sizes  

600mm x 300mm x 76mm and 400mm x 300mm x 76mm.First size  

bigger than GTR cooler. The cores come with cast polished ends all welded  

up for $700 and $950 fitting kits avalible for some cars R33, S13 to 15, Soarer, Supra and WRX to come.  

We have fitted one to a Soarer and a 180 this week and worked  

wonders on the cars my 180 is running 15 degrees cooler than with  

the top line Jap spec cooler that was fitted.  

Photos available on request.  

e-mail me or 0408628323.  

[email protected]  

Nigel.  

now the cooler kits for the Skylines are alot more than what he says here (the GTR sized cooler kit is around $1800)...but i managed to talk him down heaps! (he told me not to say how much)

give him a call....his a top bloke, hell hook you up with the cooler guy cos Nige only does the piping

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...