Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

Currently have a rb26dett engine with rwd sump mated to rb30 manual tranmission.

My plans are to build it up, and drop it into my auto AWD C34 1997 Stagea

Receiving soon a r32 gtr 600hp ati harmonic balancer, greddy grex n1 SS camshafts, hks step-2 valve springs, hks oil pump, hks 87mm pistons, attkd conrods, acl race bearings

Will buy the rest of the required parts later "when it's time" such as greddy head gasket kit, n1 water pump, ati pulleys, arp main-exhaust-intake-head studs, greddy timing belt & idler/tensioner bearings

Im assuming I can swap the sumps over? rb25det awd stagea sump to rb26dett engine?

I will be keeping the car as automatic. Simple as that.

Should I build up the current stagea auto box?

Or by a VL/RB30 auto gearbox already pre-built.

What size stall converter should be used?

Thoughts on electronic auto trans controllers? The ecu's will be replaced by r32 GTR Power-fc

If I buy a pre-built box it wil most likely be using ford C4 or holden trimatic, so the fast tci would be required

If the stagea box can be built for 500hp then the tcm2000 powertrain will be used.

ford/gm * TCI Fast Trans Controller - http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Electronics/default.asp

nissan * Powertrain Control Solutions - TCM 2000 - http://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com/transcontrol.php & http://www.destroked.com/pdfs/tcu_product2.pdf

what else is required? cheers for input

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/313919-rb26-automatic-gearbox-transmission/
Share on other sites

i have always been told that power fc can not be used with auto's!

thats why I will use a completely seperate automatic transmission controller such as the TCM-2000 from Powertrain (for nissan auto gearbox) ;)

That PCS unit looks the goods, pity I can't use it with the neo tiptronic box in my stag ;)

As for sumps, yes just use your stags sump.

Can a stag box take 500hp? dunno but mine is taking a beating with 1bar through the highflow and it's stock with no inputs from ECU (haltech). Someone will be able to build them up (knox or mvautos etc), I know there is a drag car here in WA using a 4wd auto box out of a stag so it can be done (pretty sure it even has a transbrake).

for what it's worth, apart from the diff ratio, stagea/gtr/gts4 sumps are identical.

i can't comment on the auto trans issue.... except to say if I did have an auto I would still run an after market ecu. my uneducated guess is the shift control impact is overstated

That PCS unit looks the goods, pity I can't use it with the neo tiptronic box in my stag ;)

As for sumps, yes just use your stags sump.

Can a stag box take 500hp? dunno but mine is taking a beating with 1bar through the highflow and it's stock with no inputs from ECU (haltech). Someone will be able to build them up (knox or mvautos etc), I know there is a drag car here in WA using a 4wd auto box out of a stag so it can be done (pretty sure it even has a transbrake).

Bubba your not talking about the purple 32r drag car with graphics are you? That one is not a stagea box but is auto and still 4wd. I think its from a v8 cedric or something along those lines from memory.

The stagea sump is a gtr sump, they are identical from everything i can tell except the diff gear ratios.

Fantastic - so I can drop in a tomei gtr oil baffle kit.

thanks all.

yes I will be keeping awd, Im thinking I might as well build up the current autobox then - will speak to mike at mv autos

already have the power fc, engine, q45 afm's, 550cc siemen injectors, yellowjacket coilpacks, greddy n1 cams, gtr brake kit

for 3k I got hks 87mm pistons, attkd conrods, acl race bearings, hks oil pump, ati balancer, hks step-2 springs, apexi multichecker

for another grand will finish off with n1 water pump, service gasket kit, timing belt pulley kit, then build it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...