Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-61711-1269830887_thumb.jpg

post-61711-1269831126_thumb.jpg

post-61711-1269831256_thumb.jpg

post-61711-1269831386_thumb.jpg

post-61711-1269831468_thumb.jpg

post-61711-1269831556_thumb.jpg

post-61711-1269831632_thumb.jpg

1993 r32 gtr has compliance and will come with reg in the coming week or two. first owner in australia. mods are:

63 000 kms engine has 93 000 kms.

series 3 r33 gtr engine.

hks pod filter

hks front pipe

custom split dump pipes

3 inch exhaust with in cabin silencer.

hks twin plate clucth

r33 gtr gearbox

torque splitter rwd/4wd

hks boost controler

pivot boost gauge

blits oil, water and exhaust temp gauges

trust front mount intercooler

800 cc injectors

bigger fuel pump

half roll cage

r33 gtr front seats

r34 gtr front brake rotors, rear brakes are cross drilled

cusco cooler pipeing

blitz blow-off valves

electric speedo with timer for quarter mile, lap timeing, odometer, 0 to 100kms and 0 200m

N1 front bar, lip side sskirts and pods.

has a slight gold pearl through the paint. condition of paint is immaculate

GAB adjustable coils/suspension

n1 headlights

nismo clear indicators

the role cage is currently out of the car but can go with the car if you want it. also was told its a cusco cage.

the overall condition of the car is very very very good. once again i dare anyone to compare. i am negotiable with the price as i would like to see it go so i can finally move on. and people PLEASE!! i would really appreciate it if everyone kept there nasty comments to them self and dont want any time wasters! i am more then happy to answer any questions and all inspections are welcome car is located in campbellfield - victoria.

contact number 0423682131 loky

PRICE: $15 000 NEGOTIABLE

yes i am negotiable with the price and accepting offers but please no low ballers. also would be intrested in swaps show me what you got. would even take another gtr as a swap or something along those lines.

post-61711-1269831192_thumb.jpg

JUST TO LET ANYONE KNOW WHO IS INTRESTED IN THE CAR. IT IS FULLY COMPLIED AND IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS WILL BE GETTING REGO. but wont let it go as cheap if i have to get rego. cheers.

ok guys i need this thing gone asap or im rebuilding the motor. i have no car to drive so i am desperate to sell so i can get things going again. MAKE ME AN OFFER! please nothing stupid.

booked in for rego next thursday. then going in for an engine change over with a nismo motor and plenty of goodies. get it before it goes off sale coz when i get it on road ill be asking way more then what i am now.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...