Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My air con struggles to get the car cold when the temp hits the mid 30's or so. Like if it's a hot day and the car is in the sun, it'll take forever to get the car cool. Well, maybe 15 minutes or more? I've never timed it although I probably should. But when the temperature isn't as severe, the air coming out is pretty cool and it doesn't take long to cool the car down.

I've spoken to a few people and they seem to think that this isn't right and that the air conditioning needs a re-gas. I know it's not fully out of gas by a long shot, but I'm basically just wondering if it does really need a re-gas, or if it's just that the modern refrigerant is inferior to the old CFC stuff and taking a very long time to cool the car down on a hot day is normal and acceptable?

I've also heard that they generally need re-gassing every couple of years regardless. If so I'd say it's overdue anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31420-air-conditioning-re-gas/
Share on other sites

I have just had my aircon regassed and the air coming out of the vents is at -3 degrees C.

It still takes a while to cool the car down on a really hot day. If the car has been in the sun and the interior is all hot then it can take 5 - 10 minutes before its down to cool (about 25 degrees).

Get a temp probe and stick it a fair way into the centre vent. Run the aircon on 18 degrees (or F/C) with full fan in the shade. What does your temp probe say?

I'll check it tonight with my digital thermometer, but I'm 99% sure it's well above -3 degrees. I set it to 18 degrees to check yesterday and it was cool but not cold to touch.

I'm sure it would still normally take several minutes to cool down if the car had been sitting in the sun. But I went up the coast over Christmas, and after stopping at a servo for less than 5 minutes in a cool car the aircon had to work its arse off for at *least* 15 minutes to get it cool again, probably more.

I'll check the temps but I'm pretty sure it needs re-gassing if yours is -3. Man, -3 is colder than my freezer! (which also needs a re-gas)

regas.. yeah, the air gets warmer and warmer until eventually its not cold at all. I've had it happen on an old car.

Apparently there is a gas u can use which is compatible with the system and also "ozone friendly" or whatever. It was covered in a previous thread. Couple of hundred bucks i think.

did you chk the little glass hole thingy on the compressor?  its supposed to tell you whether you are outa gas anot i thk....

thats right, but how do you inspect it? how do u know by looking at it if there is gas? i was just wondering about this yesterday :headspin:

something to do with the colour i thk but the theory works for all compressor. run a search on the net or ask your local aircon mechanic.

in the meantime, i will be doing a search myself. my a/c is working fine but its better to be safe and sorry.

ok... here's wat i found... dun quote me on it though

http://www.bba-reman.com/aircon.htm

and taken from another forum

The little glass topped device just in front of the radiator on the passenger side is the refrigerant flow indicator. If the system is up to pressure you should only see bubbles flow passed window when the compressor cuts in and out and then it should only be for a second or so. If the system is low on pressure the refrigerant will stay as a liquid, the compressor should take it over the threshold to a gas.

Here endeth the first lesson. :P

hope this helps

The sight glass doesnt really tell you anything with R134A, as it did with R12.

With the air con running, check the temp of the pipe running through the firewall, it should be around 0 degrees. Vent temps should be around 3-5 degrees. Does the compressor cycle in and out, or does it stay off for long periods?

hey siksII,

where do you get those regas' done as they seem well priced. i've had quotes closer to $200

I got quoted $99 from my local mechanic :) BG Automotive in Meadowbank if anyone's interested. They don't specialise in Skylines, but they do know imports pretty well all things considered. These are the guys that repaired my rear-end accident from one and a half years ago, and they had no problems sourcing all the parts needed.

yeah 15 degrees must suck.. i used mine all weekend (1000kms) and it was working beautifully :(

My dad got quoted from a place that he was sent to by our mechanic, the mechanic is Lambs rd auto repairs in artarmon... so if you call them you could get a good price in case you live in the north.

Crazy. 15 degrees! I cleaned the in cabin temp sensor on saturday and reconnected the air-hose to the dash fascia (the hose connects to the small vent which is just left of the steering column on the dash, the temp sensor lives inside this vent) and the air-con is working even better/colder now. The air coming out of it is so f'ing cold i have to face it away from me or ill get frost bite.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...