Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just received a second hand EBC from another member of the forum,now where do i get the mistycal hole to pass the firewall? +where do i get a shorter route to get pressure sensing?(at the moment is from the nipple at the back of the plenum,going forward next to the bat getting inside the mudgard and into the dash)

post-52922-1269942904_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/
Share on other sites

in the back corner next to the brake booster you will see a couple of cables coming off some relay/control boxes (one is a brown/yellow). follow where those cables go right down into that back corner. run the line through that hole with those cables. then do as Hugh said, pull the wheel arch lining off and you should see the line you just poked through. you will also see a large grommet on the fire wall you can then get you line through into the cabin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5158314
Share on other sites

coathanger + tape

find the grommit inside the cabin (drivers side above to right of the throttle pedal) and poke the coathanger through the grommit and up into the engine bay. You will eventually see the end of the coathanger and then it is a simple case of taping vaccum line and pulling it back through the grommit.

You should be able to do it without removing anything from the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5159050
Share on other sites

My boost gauge is connected through the big gromet behind the drivers side panel but,as i said is coming all the way from the front (under the wiper bottle)so it's a very long run...

BTW where did anybody connect the source of boost ,from the pipe that goes to the inter cooler or the second connection that I dont know how to describe it(last pic)

post-52922-1270026999_thumb.jpg

post-52922-1270027011_thumb.jpg

post-52922-1270027029_thumb.jpg

post-52922-1270027041_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5160013
Share on other sites

My boost gauge is connected through the big gromet behind the drivers side panel but,as i said is coming all the way from the front (under the wiper bottle)so it's a very long run...

Have a look inside the foot well of the drivers side with a torch and look for some grommets, you do not need to run it along with the loom.... hell long way

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5160023
Share on other sites

Have a look inside the foot well of the drivers side with a torch and look for some grommets, you do not need to run it along with the loom.... hell long way

I know...my boost gauge must have about ten minutes delay...

Found in one of the pics.I have from a rb25 neo that the last pic.could be the outlet of the turbo(yes???)

post-52922-1270029034_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5160074
Share on other sites

At last i passed solenoid loom and vacum line trought the grommet in drivers kick panel...

Another question...where do I get a IGN + wire to connect the EBC??? At the moment it's connected to a ACC + of the head unit...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5163748
Share on other sites

coathanger + tape

find the grommit inside the cabin (drivers side above to right of the throttle pedal) and poke the coathanger through the grommit and up into the engine bay. You will eventually see the end of the coathanger and then it is a simple case of taping vaccum line and pulling it back through the grommit.

You should be able to do it without removing anything from the car.

+1

thanks wolverine.

I just did mine without removing the inner guard, absolutely no need.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5174827
Share on other sites

Forgot to thank,everybody that advise me about this mod install...after more than 10 days of using it ,I can say the HDI SBC-D is a very nice working EBC boost pick up very fast (now I can feel the car pulling at 10 psi) :(

Found that the grommet under the driver's kick panel can acomodate all the connections (solenoid cable + pressure hose)and it open at the hole in the panel after the firewall),used the IGN + from the turbo timer...

And that's how it looks, used the factory hoses, again THANKS.

post-52922-1271471056_thumb.jpg

post-52922-1271471066_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314365-just-got-an-ebc/#findComment-5185253
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...