Jump to content
SAU Community

Help With R34!

TaMzKa

By TaMzKa,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

TaMzKa Rookie

TaMzKa

Posted
Posted

hey guys not sure if this is the right place to post this but i have recently picked up my R34 GTT with very minor modifications to the engine and for some reason for the past 3 days in a row as i am driving or stopped at traffic lights it has seems to stall...

at first i thought typical RB (random bullshit) ;)

but now im not sure. i know the batt is on its way out but i didnt think that could make it do this??

it on has a KN air filter on it and thats about it...

any help or ideas or if this has happen to anyone else please let me know.

thanks heaps in advance for any advice :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/
Share on other sites
SKYRYAN Grand Master

SKYRYAN

Posted
Posted (edited)

Do you have an aftermarket atmospheric blow off valve? Put the stock one back on and your problem is fixed.

Or try cleaning the AAC(Auxiliary Air Control) valve... it bypasses some air through when your foot is off the throttle.

And maybe clean your air flow meter with some electrical contact cleaner.

There is a tutorial on how to clean the AAC valve in the DIY section of the forum, just search.

Edited by SKYRYAN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5159213
Share on other sites
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)
How do you know the battery is on it's way out? Could be the alternator...

Could also be a bad earth..

My stag was having trouble starting in the mornings and would randomly cut out or stall at lights, thought the alternator was dying.. turned out it was one of the earth leads back to the battery, the wingnut that was holding it onto the clamp was loose :D

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5160944
Share on other sites
Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted
Could also be a bad earth..

My stag was having trouble starting in the mornings and would randomly cut out or stall at lights, thought the alternator was dying.. turned out it was one of the earth leads back to the battery, the wingnut that was holding it onto the clamp was loose :(

Very true.

If the battery is dying that could well be a symptom. Check the battery and alternator with a multimeter, make sure you aren't missing any volts between the alternator and the battery. If there are more volts at the alternator then there are at the battery, check your earth and positive wiring, could be a bad connection or corrosion.

Alternator should be producing 14.2v while charging

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5160976
Share on other sites
TaMzKa Rookie

TaMzKa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

^^^ thanks for your thoughts, my fiance got home last night and the batt terminal for the power was corroded, so he cleaned it up and it found to be loose so that would explain things. it hasnt missed a beat today which is great :(

as for the wheels they came with the car, dont worry in the future there will be some jap rims on there :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5161274
Share on other sites
TaMzKa Rookie

TaMzKa

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well here is an update. it was fine for nearly 2 days because he cleaned the terminals and tightly sercured the terminal as it was a little loose after getting rid of the corrosion and then last night as we were going for a drive it happened AGAIN :(

we were travelling at 60 in 5th in a residential area and then all of a sudden the car lost a little bit of power and the slip light came on.... but it was only that light!! it was weird cause we have already been driving for at least 1 or 2 hours...

any light in this would be great, now i know the batt is still not the best but thats getting replaced next week.

thanks guys :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5163318
Share on other sites
Chris34 Enthusiast

Chris34

Posted
Posted

Take it to a specialist garage. If the slip light is coming on but you aren't breaking any traction then you could have error codes. They can run a scan for you and find out.

Oh and at least put stock GT-T wheels on instead of those massive heavy abortion bling things hanging off your nice car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5163437
Share on other sites
dose_it Enthusiast

dose_it

Posted
Posted (edited)
Take it to a specialist garage. If the slip light is coming on but you aren't breaking any traction then you could have error codes. They can run a scan for you and find out.

Oh and at least put stock GT-T wheels on instead of those massive heavy abortion bling things hanging off your nice car.

stop hatin the chicks wheels. she might like them get the f**k over it! or do u need another beating at a set of lights?

Edited by dose_it
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5164629
Share on other sites
Chris34 Enthusiast

Chris34

Posted
Posted
stop hatin the chicks wheels. she might like them get the f**k over it! or do u need another beating at a set of lights?

Haha ooh big threat alert Ladies and Gentlemen! Because you driving someone elses built car is going to settle it? Or do you need a life rather than spending nights at traffic lights...?

Muppet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5164816
Share on other sites
dose_it Enthusiast

dose_it

Posted
Posted
Haha ooh big threat alert Ladies and Gentlemen! Because you driving someone elses built car is going to settle it? Or do you need a life rather than spending nights at traffic lights...?

Muppet.

I'm a muppet am I? Who cares If someone built my car it's a cefiro good luck findin a stock one and I'd hardly call it built when it's got a 250 horse sr20 coilovers and a bodykit that just manages to chirp 3rd. Ha yep that's it I just spend hours cruising from lights to lights hoping to race standard skylines I was honestly to busy perving on ur ex missus.

But seriously who cares if she has chrome wheels. Ur the only person who can relate a stall problem to rims so maybe in reality your the muppet

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314481-help-with-r34/#findComment-5164852
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AdiR34
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Keeper
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By Keeper · Posted

      Got you mate. Check your email!
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • niZmO_Man
      For Sale 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 GT350 Premium

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      You need to put location and price
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...