Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi guys if you hear of any rb30 blocks or rb25de or rb25det heads for sale around town could you please let me know. Dont mind what level of assembly the block is as i will be sourcing my own pistons and rods, would be good if it has a crank, as for the head, the more assembled it is the better it is.

thanks

I've just started the same project haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5255905
Share on other sites

Sweet, joint thread? Lol

Yeah mate. I am still trying to source the right block. I want the rb30 series 2 block of course. Had a few ridiculous offers from some wreckers. So basically we are both after an rb30 bottom end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256077
Share on other sites

what were the wreckers after for them? whats your price range? ill see what i can do. is it just the block or with pistons, rods and crank? with head? or going 25?

I just want a complete rb30 s2 bottom end. I already have an Rb25det head on my car that I will use.

I got figures of 500-600 from some wreckers down Queanbeyan way.

I understand the going rate for such an engine should be not alot more than $100-150 based on what other people i know have paid for same engine type

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256236
Share on other sites

SII has the holes for oil and water for turbo whereas SI have to be drilled. that is all.

i have heard prices as low a $50 for just a bare block. also if you can get a RB25 VCT head that would be best. RB26 head is a bit of work to fit. but is superior.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256286
Share on other sites

SII has the holes for oil and water for turbo whereas SI have to be drilled. that is all.

i have heard prices as low a $50 for just a bare block. also if you can get a RB25 VCT head that would be best. RB26 head is a bit of work to fit. but is superior.

Yeah they go pretty cheap so I am not spending more than i have to on the stock motor. I will go all out on the upgrades. I just need a half decent motor to strip and go from there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256293
Share on other sites

All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

I haven't seen any RB30 block that has been broken, ever.

And, I've still got a free RB30 bottom end. I have no idea what condition it is in, I just wanted to get rid of it so it's been sitting outside for a little while now.

Also, I haven't been looking but R31's/RB30's don't seem to be appearing forsale as commonly as they used too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256398
Share on other sites

All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

I haven't seen any RB30 block that has been broken, ever.

And, I've still got a free RB30 bottom end. I have no idea what condition it is in, I just wanted to get rid of it so it's been sitting outside for a little while now.

Also, I haven't been looking but R31's/RB30's don't seem to be appearing forsale as commonly as they used too.

Outside ay, so pretty high chances that its rusted through.. :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256413
Share on other sites

All RB30's out of R31's are Series 2, the just have holes for Oil/water as RB ONEVIA said. Only the VL had Series 1 RB30's.

R31s started and finished a year before VLs so i dont understand why they all had SII blocks.

And also, with the s1 block, do they still have the flat surface where the threads usually are for the oil and water lines? Or are they from a completely different cast?

no idea on that. as far as i know the only difference are the holes for the turbo lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5256444
Share on other sites

That looks like the Lewis engines one, Go see Greg at pro engines, he can get cranks from melbourne, If not i have a crank that might be usable (note the might part)

A collar is a good idea as the 30 cranks only drive about 3mm of the pump gear and are prone the breaking the pumps,

Once again Greg can do that for around 350 fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/314653-rb30det/page/2/#findComment-5257053
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...