Jump to content
SAU Community

Skyline Series 1 R33 Gts T Miss Firing Problem, Changed Coils, Checked Voltage At Coils ,checked Earths ?

danny14

By danny14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

danny14 Mentor

danny14

Posted
Posted

ok so wat was wrong originally was i got a tune and got the boost wound up and then it started to missfire i also have after market ecu (link). it only missfired under full snap on throttle so i changed plugs a little bit better then still missfiring.so i bought some new coil packs from performance wise (yellow jackets) and put them in took it for drive and they break down straight away where is the standard coils didnt they reved out most of the time .the yellow jackets made it worse they were brand new coils i dont understand . so i checked earth wire at back of valley near number 6 cylinder it was fine . so i checked all plugs on coils the middle terminal on all of them had 12v and the two outside ones were earths so checked that wat do i do next ?

can someone please help me on wat to do u can also hear the stanard coils arching out when engine is idleing if that helps?

reguards dan.

Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted

whats the gap on the plugs? 0.7 to 0.8

check plugs on injectors (was my problem when had a misfire)

check wiring harness on coils

check ignitor amplifier -little box on back of coil pack cover ( http://www.scribd.com/doc/6654050/Nissan-S...3-Engine-Manual ) page EN 319

check plug on computer

go back to tuner and get him to chuck it back on the dyno and see what it is doing

a bit off flashing around the coils is normal but if you can hear it it may be a different story (try get it in a garage at night with all the lights turned off and have a look for large sparks and misfiring at the same time)

danny14 Mentor

danny14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have ngk .7 gapped i checked voltages and the two earths in all the coil plugs i cant get my head round it how do i check igniter box to see if its ok ? would it be my cas ?if earths and 12v is in each coil plug then that part of it should be right ???

  • 1 month later...
theforce Community Regular

theforce

Posted
Posted
wat the new coils ? u sure .6 would fix ? isnt that a bit to small of a gap

Old post but still...

By 0.6 he is referring to the resistance of the coils (measured in ohms and should be 0.6 - 0.9ohms). Not an ideal way of testing as it will not show tiny cracks. Better off looking at the coils at night (with the valley cover off) and see for sparks or using electrical tape to tape the coil pack stem (that sits on top of spark plug) and see if that helps. If it does, then you need new coil packs.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...